Coastal Carolina

2011-07-12T11:39:00.001-04:00

INSIDE HILTON HEAD ISLAND

Planning the perfect vacation to Hilton Head Island is easy for insiders. And it can be easy for you, too. Why? It’s the kind of island where locals, and even Mother Nature herself, welcome visitors with open palms.

Whether it’s finding the best place for a bike ride or a beach stroll, world-class golf, a tasty meal, or one-of-a-kind shopping, the Chamber of Commerce Welcome Center, located on the island just after crossing the bridge, will help you start exploring. Get insider tips from the helpful local staff, who’ll likely send you about a mile down William Hilton Parkway to the Coastal Discovery Museum at Honey Horn. The island’s last working farm plantation has become a center for environmental and cultural tours and hands-on experiences, with a special emphasis on the island’s native Gullah heritage.

Originally published in USAirways Magazine

The staff also can help you find accommodations ranging from villa and home rentals to oceanfront resorts and luxe options, such as the recently redone Inn at Harbour Town, overlooking the famed Harbour Town Golf Links’ first tee box. It’s a bucket-list course for golfers because they can play on the same scenic links as the pros — while golf widows can enjoy Harbour Town’s shopping, dining, and sunsets, best viewed from one of the red rocking chairs along the scenic marina. Don’t miss the short climb up the iconic red-and-white Harbour Town Lighthouse, where you’ll find a priceless view of the surrounding Sea Islands.

In addition to Harbour Town’s vibrant restaurant scene, breakfast at Signe’s, the island’s longest continually owned restaurant, is a local favorite for its decadent deep-dish Blackberry French Toast. For lunch, it’s hard to top the plentiful waterfront restaurants serving up freshly caught shrimp and oysters. Be sure to order the longtime Southern staple — shrimp and grits.

While Hilton Head Island is a classic resort destination with a bevy of good eats and lively attractions, it’s also surprisingly natural. In fact, Mother Nature rules on this southern Sea Island. Locals fiercely protect its lush natural beauty, and you can take advantage of the many dolphin-watch tours, parasailing, paddleboarding, kayaking, boating, and other water-filled activities available at the island’s marina villages. Experience nature on land via horseback riding at Lawton Stables in Sea Pines Nature Preserve, or through exploring the peaceful Pinckney Island National Wildlife Refuge. Like much of the area, it’s surrounded by indigenous pluff mud and oyster beds.

Thanks to an array of environmentally friendly attractions and decades of eco-development, Hilton Head Island is a place where neon signs, streetlights, and tall buildings simply don’t exist. You can see sprawling live oaks by day, with no buildings to tower over the plethora of preserved trees. At night, you’ll enjoy the stars, free of light pollution interrupting the evening sky.

Once you discover the native Gullah culture at the Coastal Discovery Museum, you’ll want to experience it even more. So stop in Mitchelville to get a peek inside one of the South’s most interesting historic tales. Founded on Hilton Head Island during the Civil War, it was the site of the first self-governed community in the nation developed by freed slaves. Take the Gullah heritage tour to explore the fascinating culture and history told by the ancestors of Mitchelville’s founders who still live on the island. They’re extremely knowledgeable about the Gullah culture and can speak the distinct Gullah dialect of their ancestors. For plans about a new historic park, go to mitchelvillepreservationproject.com.

By this point of your tour, you’re speaking the island lingo. For in-depth info, go to the online concierge at hiltonheadisland.org, where you’ll find everything from favorite hot spots to where to spot bottlenose dolphins. Next thing you know, tourists will be asking you for advice!

To plan your stay, visit hiltonheadisland.org and coastaldiscovery.org.

2011-06-02T15:03:00.002-04:00

PAT CONROY'S ADOPTED HOME

Quite simply, Pat Conroy--author of bestselling novels such as South of Broad and The Water is Wide--loves everything about Beaufort and the Low Country. He says it was the first place he could really call “home”--and it still is. He and his wife, novelist Cassandra King, own a house in Beaufort.

As the son of a Marine Corps pilot (who he depicts in The Great Santini), Conroy had more than 20 addresses before moving to Beaufort in teh 1960s (another move for his father's job) as he began high school. He says the city embraced him into her history: “She was proud to have me call her my hometown.”

Conroy also pays tribute to locals who helped him along the way. While attending Beaufort High, he took a creative writing course taught by novelist Ann Morse (who wrote under the name of Ann Head). Conroy says she helped him develop his writing style, and every time he publishes a new book, Conroy takes a rose to her headstone in Beaufort's St. Helena Cemetery. He also credits his Beaufort High School teacher, Gene Norris, with giving him tours of the town that would go on to form the setting for several of his books.

Conroy now provides his own Beaufort tours to visiting friends. He shows them the two-story antebellum manse where Robert Duvall and Blythe Danner lived while making The Great Santini; the palm-surrounded historic home where Barbra Streisand stayed while filming The Prince of Tides; and the downtown Beaufort house on Hancock Street where he wrote The Boo, The Water is Wide, and the first chapters of The Great Santini. Conroy is always eager to share what he loves about Beaufort with all visitors:

Originally published in the Beaufort Visitors Guide

*What’s your favorite restaurant in the area?Shrimp Shack, always. I also like a place out on St. Helena called The Foolish Frog. A friend of mine from high school opened it. And, I generally head to Wren’s when I’m in town.

*What are your other favorite places in the area?
I love being on Bay Street with those oak trees, and the mansions are just magnificent. I think it’s one of the most beautiful sights in America. I love the sunsets there--and out at my new house.

*How did you develop such a strong affinity for the area?
When we first crossed the bridge over the Whale Branch River, I remember saying to my mother, “My God, it’s pretty.” I’d been complaining about another move, but something just clicked and I did not know that I was looking at what would become my life’s work. I went crazy for everything. I love the town and the people. The Low Country and I would be tied together forever.

*Tell us about your most recent projects.
For My Reading Life, I wanted to write something about my mother, her love of reading, and how it affected her children. I became a novelist and my sister Carol became a poet. It’s a love letter to books. I’m currently working on what’s tentatively called The Death of Santini.

Visit www.beaufortsc.org to enter a monthly drawing for a chance to win an autographed copy of Pat Conroy's newest book, My Reading Life. While in town, head to local retailers McIntosh Book Shoppe and Beaufort Bookstore to pick up more bestsellers.

2010-05-25T11:05:00.000-04:00

NORTH CAROLINA’S CRYSTAL COAST

A Destination That’s All Wet

Few places on the Atlantic coastline are as influenced by water as North Carolina’s Crystal Coast. From the restaurants serving fresh seafood caught by local fisherman to the tourists caught up in the quietude of Cape Lookout National Seashore, Crystal Coast residents and visitors have been living by the tides for centuries. It’s a culture that’s steeped in saltwater.

The area includes about 80 miles of coastline, with more than 55 miles of it in the protected Cape Lookout National Seashore. In addition, many bays, rivers, creeks, and other bodies of water provide even more coastal environments for those who work or play on the water.

Originally published in TrailBlazer

“Whether you call our area Carteret County, the Crystal Coast, or the Southern Outer Banks, the water is our calling card,” says Carol Lohr, a 30-year county resident and the long-time executive director of the Crystal Coast Tourism Development Authority. “Throughout our county’s history, the water has provided a lifestyle and livelihood that both locals and visitors love.” Visitors to the area may find it interesting that Lohr’s office and the Crystal Coast visitor center overlook the Intracoastal Waterway. Those seeking information can’t help but become immediately immersed in the county’s relationship with the water.

There’s no better place to start an exploration of area’s water-based history than the Carteret County’s museum, The History Place, which opened in 2001 on bustling Arendell Street in Morehead City. The sprawling 12,000-square-foot modern museum welcomes folks with several galleries, a popular museum store, an auditorium, a library, a classroom, and a tea shop and café. Hundreds of pieces of history are on display in exhibits that include an old general store, an early schoolroom, a Victorian parlor, and a doctor’s office. Many longtime county families contributed to the museum, with items ranging from American Indian artifacts to fishing gear.

The Rodney B. Kemp Museum Gallery is a local favorite. Named for the historian and award-winning storyteller, this gallery changes exhibits every month. “The History Place captures the essence of the county’s past,” says curator Les Ewen. “One of our most popular programs is ‘Lunch with a Dash of History,’ with Rodney Kemp. Rodney donates his time to the museum and is very active throughout the community.”

Kemp has lived in the county since 1949, when he was 2 years old. “One of my first adventures in moving here was when my brother took me down to the waterfront,” Kemp recalls. “The smell of salty, humid air mixed with fish is as wonderful now as it was then. This is the only home I’ve ever known.”

Kemp attended a time capsule ceremony as a youngster back in 1958 and enjoyed its reopening last year. The event, which is now highlighted in The History Place, coincided with 150th anniversary celebrations for Morehead City. “I am fortunate to have lived here almost all of my life and this aids me greatly in the historical perspective," he says. "To be part of the 150th anniversary of a place I love so much is an honor for me beyond compare.”

Just two blocks over from the waterfront, legendary seafood restaurants like Sanitary Fish Market Restaurant serve up the local catch with a view. Originally opened by Ted Garner and Tony Seamon in 1938 as a fresh seafood market, the partners paid $5.50 rent per week with a promise to their landlord that they wouldn’t sell beer or wine and that the premises would be kept clean. They selected the name to reflect that oath of cleanliness. The original location featured just 12 stools. Today, the restaurant seats 600 people, and Garner’s grandchildren run day-to-day operations.

In 1945, John Tunnell started working at the restaurant, and he hasn’t stopped since. “I’ve done everything here--and still do,” says Tunnell. He rarely forgets a face or a name and still loves fish, the famed Sanitary hush puppies, and the Crystal Coast, where he’s lived since his early childhood.

Nearby, the historic town of Beaufort overlooks Taylor Creek and the uninhabited Rachel Carson National Estuarine Research Reserve. There are lots of shops, restaurants, and great water-based rentals and excursions, but Beaufort is also an ideal base for exploring Cape Lookout National Seashore.

Several ferry services, like waterfront Outer Banks Ferry Service, take visitors out to various parts of the protected seashore, where it’s often possible to spot some of the wild horses that are part of a 120-strong herd on Shackleford Banks, a nine-mile island that’s part of the National Seashore. “I love sending people out there,” says Outer Banks Ferry Service manager Cindy Smith. “It’s obviously a highlight of a visit.”

Beaufort is also the home of the North Carolina Maritime Museum. Located just across the street from Taylor Creek and Outer Banks Ferry Service, this fascinating museum interprets all aspects of North Carolina’s maritime heritage. An array of exhibits vividly document commercial fishing, watercraft, lifesaving history, navigation, coastal marine life, and much more. From boats to a huge shell collection and lots of decoys, this is another must-see area museum. Across the street at the museum’s Watercraft Center, visitors can watch the renovation and restoration of various wooden boats and ship models.

Nearby, Beaufort Historic Site features three centuries of preserved coastal Carolina history. Situated on Turner Street, this two-acre plot includes 10 historic buildings that date from the 1730s to the mid-1800s. Visitors find cottages, a jail, an apothecary shop, a doctor’s office, and even the Old Burying Ground--one of very few cemeteries listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

The area is known for welcoming two-legged visitors, but Beaufort is also becoming well-known for welcoming the four-legged variety. Several local businesses welcome dogs. “You will find dog watering bowls in front of several shops and restaurants, as well as doggie clean-up stations along the boardwalk,” says local dog lover Molly Wood. “We even have a dog-friendly pub and a coffee shop/wine bar that love to have four-legged visitors come in with their humans.” Several restaurants even have dog-friendly outdoor seating.

Beaufort and Morehead city aren’t the only Crystal Coast towns of note. Located just inland, the small town of Newport is the home of the Newport Pig Cookin’ Contest each spring. And pork lovers can walk off a few of those eastern-style barbecue sandwiches on the nearby Neusiok Trail, which runs about 20 miles through woods, bogs, and marshes.

Though technically not part of the Crystal Coast proper (it‘s barely in Onslow County), the quaint waterfront town of Swansboro is another great base on the coast. With a flavor similar to Morehead City and Beaufort, Swansboro is well worth a water-based visit or stay.

Beach communities like Atlantic Beach, Pine Knoll Shores, and Emerald Isle await just across the bridge from Morehead City. These spots are home to waterfront dining and accommodations, Fort Macon State Park, and the North Carolina Aquarium at Pine Knoll Shores.

Fort Macon State Park provides a unique peek into early Carteret County history. The oceanfront location led to Fort Macon being garrisoned in 1834. It was seized from Union forces by the state of North Carolina at the beginning of the Civil War, but it fell back into Union hands in 1862 after they attacked Confederate forces. It served as a coaling station for Union navy ships during the rest of the war and as a federal prison from 1867 to 1876. The fort closed in 1903, after additional use during the Spanish-American War.

Fort Macon was sold to the state in 1924 for $1 and became North Carolina’s second state park , following towering Mount Mitchell out west. A four-year renovation was completed in 2003, resulting in a new museum facility. A quiet visit today includes varied exhibits about life at the fort, cannons, occasional living history and weapons demonstrations, and 385 acres of incredible views over the Atlantic Ocean, Beaufort Inlet, and Bogue Sound.

The North Carolina Aquarium at Pine Knoll Shores reopened in 2006 after major renovations and an expansion. From shark-feeding scuba divers to sunken ships surrounded by exotic colorful fish, this aquarium makes it easy to dive right into the area’s aquaculture.

Of course, this sandy stretch is also popular for simply strolling the wide beach and sitting in the sun. Two popular piers make catching "the big one" a distinct possibility (as do lots of county-based boats that welcome visiting anglers).

When the big ones get away from amateur anglers, commercial fisherman haul them in for local restaurants specializing in fresh seafood. “We are proud to be part of Carteret County’s culinary heritage,” says Libby Eaton, who is co-owner with chef and husband Tim Coyne of Morehead City’s Bistro-by-the-Sea. “I’m on the executive board of Carteret Catch, a nonprofit organization developed to educate the public on the history of Carteret County fisherman.” Carteret Catch has a program that ensures that seafood like the triggerfish often found on the menu at Bistro-by-the-Sea can be traced to the area’s commercial fisherman who caught it offshore (several other county restaurants participate).

Those who also enjoy seeing their seafood underwater as well will want to pursue another fishy Crystal Coast draw--scuba diving. With the area dubbed the “Graveyard of the Atlantic” because of the numerous wrecks just offshore, wreck diving is big business here, with lots of big fish swimming through the remains of dozens of big ships. Several dive shops in the area cater to scuba divers (and those who want to learn).

A visit to the Crystal Coast wouldn’t be complete without heading across the North River bridge and into the easternmost parts of this varied county. This even quieter Down East section features Cedar Island National Wildlife Refuge, the Core Sound Waterfowl Museum, and Cape Lookout National Seashore, which can be accessed easily by ferry.

The 12,500-acre Cedar Island National Wildlife Refuge is a nature lover’s paradise. Here, hiking, bird watching, and boating are all enjoyable pursuits. The northern end of Cedar Island is also home to the ferry terminal for the Cedar Island-Ocracoke Island ferry service, a favorite ride in the ferry system (RV size restrictions may apply).

At the Core Sound Waterfowl Museum, exhibits detail the water-based life of this area, including a special emphasis on the decoy carving culture of Harkers Island and beyond. In addition, from Harkers Island, several ferry services offer mostly seasonal service over to several parts of Cape Lookout National Seashore, where an even quieter Carteret County beach lookout awaits.

But it’s what’s just across Core Sound that lures visitors back to the Crystal Coast again and again. This secluded North Carolina coastal gem never ceases to fascinate, and it takes many visits to take it all in (if that’s even possible). Along with the previously mentioned Shackleford Banks and the famed wild horses, the National Seashore includes 22-mile-long South Core Banks, home of the Cape Lookout Lighthouse, and the approximately 20-mile North Core Banks, an even quieter National Seashore destination.

Of course, the Cape Lookout Lighthouse is a Carteret County beacon. It was completed in 1859, it's 169 feet tall with 201 steps, and it flashes every 15 seconds. The lighthouse complex also includes the Keepers’ Quarters, with a small museum and bookstore.

Up on North Core Banks, devoted coastal explorers can head to the former village of Portsmouth (established in 1753). With a small array of homes, churches, stores, and even a post office, Portsmouth provides fascinating insight into Crystal Coast life before bridges, although the importance of water in this county is still certainly afloat practically everywhere. The relationship between this area and water has served residents and visitors very well--and it likely will for many generations to come.

For more information, contact the Crystal Coast Tourism Authority, (800) SUNNY NC (786-6962), www.crystalcoastnc.org.

2010-05-25T11:01:00.001-04:00

SOUTHPORT, NORTH CAROLINA:

A Southern Cruiser's Town

If you sit at the Yacht Basin Provision Company bar watching boat traffic for more than a half-hour, you’re sure to hear stories about cruisers who docked here and never left town--or how locals are known to lend visiting cruisers their trucks so they can go for supplies. Give it an hour and you’re also sure to see a captain misread the current, giving locals another story of docking gone awry to repeat over cold beers pulled from the self-serve fridge.

Boating is in the blood of both long-time locals and newcomers who have fallen in love with historic Southport, on the shores of North Carolina's Cape Fear River and Intracoastal Waterway. “Quite simply, it’s a great place for a boater to live or visit,” says Russ Ferris, a Southport resident for more than 18 years. After a day of working on one of his boats can be found at the Provision Company every afternoon. “There are an incredible amount of boating and fishing organizations and events here,” he continues, while watching the boats go by on the ICW.

Originally published in Southern Boating

This water-oriented town started out as Smithville in 1792. It was re-named Southport in 1887 and attracted lots of shipping traffic into the 20th century. Though the area’s big-time port is now up the Cape Fear River in Wilmington, the early part of this century has seen Southport develop into a popular destination for visiting cruisers, including some who appreciate the sleepy surrounding marshlands and never leave.

Located right on the Intracoastal, the Provision Company at 130 Yacht Basin Drive (910-457-0654) has become somewhat of a cruiser's Mecca in Southport. “We thought the Southport waterfront was a great location for a casual outdoor dining restaurant, which it lacked at the time,” says Maria Tilling, who has owned and operated the unique restaurant and bar with her husband Paul Swenson since 1993. “It is wonderful to be able to go to work in shorts, have a great view of the water, work in a profession we love, and live in a great town.” Their patrons grab their own drinks, paying on an honor system, and order food from the counter. Meals arriving from the tiny kitchen are delivered to your outdoor table by friendly waitresses who call out your name until you claim your order. Patron favorites include steamed shrimp, a great grouper salad sandwich, freshly made chowder, and some seriously tasty hamburgers. Free overnight dockage is available if you buy dinner.

Mark Tallon is another boater--and Provision Company regular--who has fallen for Southport. Although hardly anyone here used to sail 20 years ago, Mark notes Southport now has an active sailing scene. “Our current governor, Mike Easley, is really into sailing in this area,” he says. Easley maintains a second home in Southport. “The sailing is great around here," Mark says. Our Cape Fear Yacht Club, which just celebrated it’s tenth anniversary, has an active racing scene, as well as other boating-oriented events.”

Convenient dock space for boats of all types can be found at Southport Marina at ICW MM 309. Docking here puts most of downtown Southport’s offerings, including shopping and an excellent dining scene, all within easy walking distance for transients. You can also get fresh shrimp right off the boat in season. Southport Marina offers 200 recently upgraded slips on floating docks, dry storage, gas and diesel, freshwater, electricity, cable television and wi-fi, and a full-service boatyard.

Southport is a charming little town with quiet tree-lined streets, small shops and restaurants and lots of friendly locals. The first stop should be the Southport Visitor Center located next to the town library at 113 West Moore Street. Pick up the “Southport Trail” pamphlet, which features an excellent walking tour taking you past notable historic buildings with with many marine-oriented highlights. Though the town is walkable, visiting cruisers shouldn't be surprised if a local offers them a ride.

History buffs will definitely want to pay a visit to the North Carolina Maritime Museum of Southport at 116 N. Howe Street ( 910-457-0003). The museum houses an excellent collection of memorabilia pertaining to the vast nautical history of the Lower Cape Fear region of southeastern North Carolina. Exhibits range from model ships to accounts of pirate Stede Bonnet’s pleas for clemency before he was hanged. Those who like to shop till they drop will love the options in Southport--Howe Street and Moore Street both bustle with independent shops (visit southportmerchants.com).

Southport has some wonderful parks worth checking out. Local legend has it that if you drink water from the pump in Franklin Square Park, you’re destined to return. Keziah Memorial Park is home to the 800-year-old Indian Trail Tree and Waterfront Park is a great place to sit and watch the boats go by, which range from tiny local skiffs to huge freighters from far afield. Another big Southport attraction is actually an event: the North Carolina Fourth of July Festival has evolved into a big festival featuring arts and crafts, entertainment, a parade, fireworks, and more--including lots of cruisers.

Along with the casual Provision Company, Southport has some excellent dining. The possibilities include colorful waterfront dining at Fishy Fishy above the marina, world-class Thai fare at Thai Peppers on East Moore Street and creative upscale cuisine at The Pharmacy on East Moore Street, Mr. P’s Bistro on North Howe Street, or Live Oak Cafe also on North Howe Street. The dining scene continues to evolve and there are sure to be even more excellent choices in coming seasons.

A bit further along the ICW, South Harbour Village Marina located at ICW MM 311 is an up-and-coming stop for those traveling the coast. Though it’s not within convenient walking distance of downtown Southport, it's close to Oak Island--an 8,000-resident beach community that’s coming on the real estate radar in a big way. Wildlife Creek, situated behind South Harbour Marina, provides a nice place to anchor.

Just across the Cape Fear River and reached only by private boat or public ferry from the Indigo Plantation Marina (next to the city marina) in Southport, Bald Head Island (baldheadhisland.com) is another great boating destination. Golf carts are the chosen mode of transportation once on land. The island features a full-service 10-acre marina located two miles east of ICW MM 307 (910-457-7380), dining, shopping, an 18-hole golf course through salt marsh and maritime forest, accommodations, and sightseeing in the shadow of Old Baldy, North Carolina's oldest lighthouse. She was retired in 1935 but is now open to the public for tours. A historic tour of Bald Head Island includes stops at the Smith Museum, the Old Baldy lighthouse and lunch or dinner.

Anyone who loves boats might enjoy the opportunity to see them being built at the local Southport Boat Works (910-383-0365; southport-boatworks.com). Founded in 2003, the company sells four models of 26 and 28-foot sport- fishing boats through dealerships throughout the country and the Caribbean. Designed by renowned naval architects, C. Raymond Hunt Associates, they are built to handle the rough sea conditions often found off the coast of the Carolinas and elsewhere.

As the day winds down, visitors and locals alike wander over to the Provision Company to exchange news and wait for action. Only two kinds of cruisers cut marker #1 on the wrong side as they approach town: locals and tourists. Locals know when and how to do it, while tourists may find their boat going aground right in front of the crowd. Visiting cruisers who get it right, however, will find regulars are typically happy to help with the sometimes tricky docking process--just be sure to buy ‘em a beer once the lines are secure!

Know Before You Go:

*Use NOAA Chart #11536 for offshore approach and #11537 for harbor approach.
*Southport Visitor Center: 910-457-7927 or 800-388-9635
*Southport Marina: 910-457-9900 - transient vessels to 200 feet
*South Harbor Village Marina: 910-457-7486 - transient vessels to 120 feet
*Bald Head Island Marina: 910-234-1666 - transient vessels to 94 feet
*Indigo Plantation Marina: 910-457-7380 - transient vessels to 70 feet

2010-05-25T10:57:00.002-04:00

CARTERET COUNTY

The aquaculture of this coastal county is crystal clear.

Few places in North Carolina are as influenced by water as Carteret County. From the restaurants serving fresh seafood caught by local fisherman to the tourists caught up in the quietude of Cape Lookout National Seashore, Carteret County residents and visitors have been living by the tides for centuries. It’s a culture that’s steeped in saltwater.

The county includes 80 miles of coastline, with more than 55 miles of it in the protected Cape Lookout National Seashore. In addition, many bays, rivers, creeks, and other bodies of water provide even more coastal environments for those who work or play on the water.

Originally published in Our State Magazine

“Whether you call our area Carteret County, the Crystal Coast, or the Southern Outer Banks, the water is our calling card,” says Carol Lohr, a 29-year county resident and the long-time executive director of the Crystal Coast Tourism Development Authority. “Throughout our county’s history, the water has provided a lifestyle and livelihood that both locals and visitors love.” When I stopped by to speak with Lohr about the county’s connection to the water, I found it interesting that her office and the visitor center overlook the Intracoastal Waterway. Visitors seeking information can’t help but become immediately immersed in the county’s relationship with the water.

“Carteret County is a key part of North Carolina’s coastal heritage, linking the entire state to the sea,” says county manager, John Langdon “Early settlers arrived from the ocean and their descendents continued for many years making their livelihoods primarily from the sea through commercial shipping and fishing. Those industries still prosper here today. However, our county has evolved, in a manner; our economy remains heavily based upon the coastal connection in other exciting ways--through the emergence of an expanding and vibrant tourism industry.”

A dash of history

There’s no better place to start an exploration of Carteret County’s water-based history than the county’s museum, The History Place, which opened in 2001 on bustling Arendell Street in Morehead City.

The sprawling 12,000-square-foot modern musuem welcomes visitors with several galleries, a popular museum store, an auditorium, a library, a classroom, and a tea shop and café. Hundreds of pieces of history are on display in exhibits that include an old general store, an early schoolroom, a Victorian parlor, and a doctor’s office. Many longtime county families contributed to the museum, with items ranging from American Indian artifacts to fishing gear.

The Rodney B. Kemp Museum Gallery is a local favorite. Named for the historian and award-winning storyteller, this gallery changes exhibits every month.

“The History Place captures the essence of the county’s past,” says curator Les Ewen. “One of our most popular programs is ‘Lunch with a Dash of History,’ with Rodney Kemp. Rodney donates his time to the museum and is very active throughout the community.”

Kemp has lived in the county since 1949, when he was 2 years old. “One of my first adventures in moving here was when my brother took me down to the waterfront,” Kemp recalls. “The smell of salty, humid air mixed with fish is as wonderful now as it was then. This is the only home I’ve ever known.”

Kemp attended a time capsule ceremony as a youngster back in 1958 and enjoyed its reopening this past May. The event, which is now highlighted in The History Place, coincided with 150th anniversary celebrations for Morehead City. “I am fortunate to have lived here almost all of my life and this aids me greatly in the historical perspective," he says. "To be part of the 150th anniversary of a place I love so much is an honor for me beyond compare.”

A Sanitary meal

Just two blocks over from the waterfront, legendary seafood restaurants like Sanitary Fish Market Restaurant serve up the local catch with a view.

Originally opened by Ted Garner and Tony Seamon in 1938 as a fresh seafood market, the partners paid $5.50 rent per week with a promise to their landlord that they wouldn’t sell beer or wine and that the premises would be kept clean. They selected the name to reflect that oath of cleanliness. The original location featured just 12 stools. Today, the restaurant seats 600 people, and Garner’s grandchildren run day-to-day operations.

In 1945, John Tunnell started working at the restaurant, and he hasn’t stopped since. “I’ve done everything here--and still do,” says Tunnell. He rarely forgets a face or a name and still loves fish, the famed Sanitary hush puppies, and Carteret County, where he’s lived since his early childhood.

Historic Beaufort

The town of Beaufort overlooks Taylor Creek and the uninhabited Rachel Carson National Estuarine Research Reserve. There are lots of shops, restaurants, water-based rentals and excursions, bed and breakfasts, and inns to visit, but Beaufort is also a great base for exploring Cape Lookout National Seashore.

Several ferry services, like Outer Banks Ferry Service, take visitors out to various parts of the protected seashore, where it’s often possible to spot some of the wild horses that are part of a 120-strong herd on Shackleford Banks, a nine-mile island that’s part of the National Seashore. “I love sending people out there,” says Outer Banks Ferry Service manager Cindy Smith. “It’s obviously a highlight of a visit to this county.”

Beaufort is also the home of the North Carolina Maritime Museum. Located just across the street from Taylor Creek and Outer Banks Ferry Service, this fascinating museum interprets all aspects of North Carolina’s maritime heritage. An array of exhibits vividly document commercial fishing, watercraft, lifesaving history, navigation, coastal marine life, and much more.

From boats to a huge shell collection and lots of decoys, this is another must-see Carteret County museum. Across the street at the museum’s Watercraft Center, visitors can watch the renovation and restoration of various wooden boats and ship models.

Nearby, Beaufort Historic Site features three centuries of preserved coastal Carolina history. Situated on Turner Street, this two-acre plot includes 10 historic buildings that date from the 1730s to the mid-1800s. Visitors find cottages, a jail, an apothecary shop, a doctor’s office, and even the Old Burying Ground--one of very few cemeteries listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Carteret County is known for welcoming two-legged visitors, but Beaufort is also becoming well-known for welcoming the four-legged variety. The Red Dog Inn Bed and Breakfast and several local businesses welcome dogs. “You will find dog watering bowls in front of several shops and restaurants, as well as doggie clean-up stations along the boardwalk,” says Red Dog Inn’s Molly Wood. “We even have a dog-friendly pub and a coffee shop/wine bar that love to have four-legged visitors come in with their humans.” Several restaurants even have dog-friendly outdoor seating.

Pigs and parks

Beaufort and Morehead city aren’t the only county towns of note. Located just inland, the small town of Newport is the home of the Newport Pig Cookin’ Contest each spring. And you can walk off a few of those eastern-sytle barbecue sandwiches on the nearby Neusiok Trail, which runs about 20 miles through woods, bogs, and marshes.

Beach communities like Atlantic Beach, Pine Knoll Shores, and Emerald Isle await just across the bridge from Morehead City. These spots are home to waterfront dining and accommodations, Fort Macon State Park, and the North Carolina Aquarium at Pine Knoll Shores.

Fort Macon State Park provides a unique peek into early Carteret County history. The oceanfront location led to Fort Macon being garrisoned in 1834. It was seized from Union forces by the state of North Carolina at the beginning of the Civil War, but it fell back into Union hands in 1862 after they attacked Confederate forces. It served as a coaling station for Union navy ships during the rest of the war and as a federal prison from 1867 to 1876. The fort closed in 1903, after additional use during the Spanish-American War.

Fort Macon was sold to the state in 1924 for $1 and became North Carolina’s second state park , following Mount Mitchell. A four-year renovation was completed in 2003, resulting in a new museum facility. A quiet visit today includes varied exhibits about life at the fort, cannons, occasional living history and weapons demonstrations, and 385 acres of incredible views over the Atlantic Ocean, Beaufort Inlet, and Bogue Sound.

The North Carolina Aquarium at Pine Knoll Shores reopened in 2006 after major renovations and an expansion. From shark-feeding scuba divers to sunken ships surrounded by exotic colorful fish, this aquarium makes it easy to dive right into the county’s aquaculture.

Of course, this sandy stretch is also popular for simply strolling the sandy beach and sitting in the sun. Two popular piers make catching "the big one" a distinct possibility (as do lots of county-based boats that welcome visiting anglers).

When the big ones get away from amateur anglers, commercial fisherman haul them in for local restaurants specializing in fresh seafood. “We are proud to be part of Carteret County’s culinary heritage,” says Libby Eaton, who is co-owner with chef and husband Tim Coyne of Morehead City’s Bistro-by-the-Sea. “I’m on the executive board of CarteretCatch, a nonprofit organization developed to educate the public on the history of Carteret County fisherman.” CarteretCatch (www.carteretcatch.com) has a program that ensures that seafood like the triggerfish I enjoyed at Bistro-by-the-Sea can be traced to the Carteret County commercial fisherman who caught it offshore (several other county restaurants participate).

Those who also enjoy seeing their seafood underwater as well will want to pursue another fishy Carteret County draw--scuba diving. With the area dubbed the “Graveyard of the Atlantic” because of the numerous wrecks just offshore, wreck diving is big business here, with lots of big fish swimming through the remains of dozens of big ships.

Heading down east

A visit wouldn’t be complete without heading across the North River bridge and into the easternmost parts of this varied county. This even quieter Down East section features Cedar Island National Wildlife Refuge, the Core Sound Waterfowl Museum, and Cape Lookout National Seashore, which can be accessed easily by ferry.

The 12,500-acre Cedar Island National Wildlife Refuge is a nature lover’s paradise. Here, hiking, birdwatching, and boating are all enjoyable pursuits. The northern end of Cedar Island is also home to the ferry terminal for the Cedar Island-Ocracoke Island ferry service, a favorite ride in the ferry system.

At the Core Sound Waterfowl Museum, exhibits detail the water-based life of this area, including a special emphasis on the decoy carving culture of Harkers Island and beyond.

In addition, from Harkers Island, several ferry services offer mostly seasonal service over to several parts of Cape Lookout National Seashore, where an even quieter Carteret County beach lookout awaits.

Welcomed seclusion

But it’s what’s just across Core Sound that lures me back to Carteret County again and again.

This secluded North Carolina coastal gem never ceases to fascinate, and it takes many visits to take it all in (if that’s even possible). Along with the previously mentioned Shackleford Banks and the famed wild horses, the National Seashore includes 22-mile-long South Core Banks, home of the Cape Lookout Lighthouse, and the approximately 20-mile North Core Banks, an even quieter National Seashore dstination.

Of course, the Cape Lookout Lighthouse is a Carteret County beacon. It was completed in 1859, it's 169 feet tall with 201 steps, and it flashes every 15 seconds. The lighthouse complex also includes the Keepers’ Quarters, with a small museum and bookstore.

Up on North Core Banks, devoted county explorers head to the former village of Portsmouth (established in 1753). With a small array of homes, churches, stores, and even a post office, Portsmouth provides fascinating insight into Carteret County life before bridges, although the importance of water in this county is still certainly afloat practically everywhere. The relationship between this area and water has served residents and visitors very well--and it likely will for many generations to come.

If you’re going

Crystal Coast Tourism Authority
3409 Arendell Street
Morehead City, NC 28557
(800) SUNNY NC (786-6962)
http://www.crystalcoastnc.org/

The History Place
1008 Arendell Street
Morehead City, NC 28557
(252) 247-7533
http://www.thehistoryplace.org/
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m.

North Carolina Aquarium at Pine Knoll Shores
1 Roosevelt Boulevard
Pine Knoll Shores, NC 28512
(252) 247-4003
http://www.ncaquariums.org/
Hours: Daily, 9 a.m.-5 p.m.

2010-05-25T10:50:00.001-04:00

CAROLINA IN MY MIND

Get the Tar Heel lowdown with our insider's guide to
cruising Southeastern North Carolina

With apologies to James Taylor, I’m going to Carolina in more than my mind. I’m going there in my boat, and my destination of choice is the grass-filled low counrty of the state's southeastern coast.

When I think of Tar Heel blue, I think of blue--and sometimes black--water. Stretching from Virginia to South Carolina, the coastline of North Carolina features thousands of miles of cruising, fishing, and watersports areas--and the southeastern section offers some of the best possibilities.

Starting in the Beaufort and Morehead City area and running in a generally southwestern direction about 140 standard miles down to the Cape Fear River and the state line, this stretch features practically any kind of trailer boating you could want. With an abundance of public and private ramps, plus lots of boater services, it’s easy to see why James Taylor plays more than mind games in this part of the Carolinas.

Originally published in Trailer Boats

Boater Friendly

Southeastern North Carolina features hundreds of miles of Atlantic and inland waterways; outlying islands that protect the coastline (many deserted and awaiting boater-only visits), varied Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) passages, world-class inshore and offshore fishing, several small towns that are incredibly boater-friendly. So there's a lot to do when you’re not on the water.

The twin towns of Beaufort and Morehead City are a great place to start. Lots of ramps, marinas, services and outlying islands make this region a great boating destination. Add the area's rich history and deliciously fresh seafood, and it's just icing on the cake.

Heading southwest, you can take the Intracoastal Waterway to Surf City, Topsail Beach, Wrightsville Beach, and Carolina Beach to the famed Cape Fear River. Here, Bald Head Island, Southport, and even Wilmington are all convenient destinations for boaters.

In addition, four outlying islands between the Atlantic Ocean and Intracoastal Waterway welcome boaters before they hit South Carolina. From east to west, these include Oak Island, Holden Beach, Ocean Isle Beach, and Sunset Beach. All four have definitely arrived on boaters radar screens, but Oak Island (full disclosure--I live there), which is closest to historic Southport, has become a boater favorite.

Tantalizing Twin Cities

You could spend weeks on and off the boat in and around Beaufort and Morehead City. These cities team up to tantalize with an array of on-the-water experiences, marinas, restaurants, shopping, and sightseeing.

Basically, Beaufort is the more historic and established of the two, while Morehead City is a bit more utilitarian (it’s the state’s second largest commercial port behind Wilmington). Both should be visited on any trip to the area, which is considered by many to be the hub of the North Carolina boating scene.

Located along Taylor Creek, Beaufort’s delights include several bustling marinas (Beaufort Municipal Docks is the most convenient), a charming historic district that's great for walking tours, and the excellent North Carolina Maritime Museum. (The museum's fascinating Harvey W. Smith Watercraft Center across the street focuses on traditional North Carolina designs). When it's time for a meal or shopping, you'll delight in an eclectically upscale dining scene (locals swear by Spouter Inn, Front Street Grill, and Beaufort Grocery Company), as well as equally unique shopping (don’t miss Scuttlebutt Books & Bounty).

To the west, Morehead City’s waterfront bustles with a large charter fishing fleet, several marinas (Morehead Gulf Docks is most convenient), The History Place (featuring great local history exhibits), and a waterfront boardwalk with several restaurants (Sanitary Fish Market has been there since 1938). Just outside downtown, the helpful Carteret County Tourism Development Bureau’s office offers lots of great information on the area, plus a bustling four-ramp North Carolina Wildlife Access point for boaters, which is the only visitor center/boat ramp combo we’ve seen along the Atlantic coastline.

Wild Horses

Though Morehead City and Beaufort are ideal bases, the uninhabited outlying Shackleford Banks and Cape Lookout Bight offer two of the top boating experiences to be found in the Southeast. As part of the federally protected Cape Lookout National Seashore, Shackleford Banks is famous as a home to wild ponies--but there’s also great primitive camping (no special permits needed), as well as wild dunes and valleys that have remained completely undeveloped.

Cape Lookout features the distinctive black-and-white diamond pattern of Cape Lookout Lighthouse, and offers more than a dozen miles of undeveloped beachfront and dunes. When the wind is down, the wide area that makes up Core Sound is great for the skiing, wakeboarding, and tubing sets. Those who don’t want to take their own boat to either destination can take advantage of ferry services out of Beaufort and Harkers Island.

Along with excellent inshore fishing for popular species such as speckled trout and spots, Morehead City is also world-renowned for offshore action with sailfish, tuna, king mackerel, and more. Like Wrightsville Beach, Southport, and other towns further down the coast, the Morehead City is also a hotspot for fishing tournaments and other fishy events.

Heading west out of Morehead City along the ICW, beach communities such as Atlantic Beach and Emerald Isle are mostly for sun-worshipping landlubbers. After transiting Bogue Sound (which is wide and nice for watersports), you'll come to the charming waterfront town of Swansboro, a popular stop for boaters. Though not nearly as developed as Beaufort, downtown Swansboro has more than adequate marina facilities, dining and shopping.

Let 'er Run

As you travel farther along the ICW, the 17-mile stretch from Swansboro to the New River is among the quietest and longest sections in the state. It’s pretty much a straight and well-marked channel, though tidal currents can be quite heavy at times.

The New River is a highlight for both locals and visiting boaters, thanks to 15-plus miles of largely undeveloped shoreline that runs pretty much right up to Jacksonville. The reason it’s undeveloped is because it’s part of the Camp Lejeune Marine Corps Base, so landing is generally not allowed. Old Ferry Marina, located just past the Sneads Ferry bridge, is a great stop for services and upriver information--as well as recommendations for the best fishing, boarding and tubing spots along the wide New River.

Jacksonville is well worth the run up the New, thanks to the friendly husband-wife operation at the city’s Tideline Marine, as well as lots of dining, shopping that are within walking distance. Docking for dinner is also allowed at tasty Fisherman’s Wharf Restaurant.

Swan Point is the next stop past the New River, with South Point Marina offering a perfect place to pull in for services and information about the run to Wrightsville Beach. About 19 miles further down the ICW, Harbour Village Marina is another popular stop. Access to outlying islands like Surf City and Topsail Beach is available, but these are mainly beach destinations.

Wrightsville Beach is well worth visiting, however. This area offers numerous ramps and marinas, lots of restaurants within walking distance (don’t miss Causeway Cafe), and some interesting cruising. Deep sea fishing out near the Gulf Stream is also popular for boats launching out of Wrightsville.

Historic Cape Fear

After passing Masonboro Inlet’s busy Masonboro Boatyard and Marina, bustling Carolina Beach is the next point of interest along the ICW. Owing to the area's development, boat ramps and marina facilities are limited, but if you can swing it, Carolina Beach State Park and Civil War-era Fort Fisher are well worth exploring.

Like the New River, the wide Cape Fear River is definitely a cruising and watersports highlight. Despite its fierce name, there's little to fear about this stretch. The Cape Fear offers numerous ramps, and a short 10-mile run upstream will take you to the charming city of Wilmington. Cape Fear's fascinating history includes the dreaded pirate Stede Bonnet, the 1725 town of Brunswick, and stunning Orton Plantation. Reached only by private boat or ferry, Bald Head Island is a great place to explore. No cars allowed, so visitors and residents alike use golf carts for transportation -- all under the watchful "eye" of the landmark Old Baldy lighthouse.

The shoreline up to Wilmington is largely undeveloped, making for a generally quiet trip. However, be warned: This is the state’s largest port, and commercial traffic--including huge container ships--can prove daunting to skippers of smaller vessels. Once there, however, downtown docking and some of the region’s best dining (Pilot House is a waterfront favorite), shopping, and history await. Across the river from downtown, visiting boaters shouldn’t miss a tour of the huge battlehsip USS North Carolina.

Back at the mouth of the Cape Fear, Southport is surely one of the top boating hotspots in the region. Be sure to grab a meal and enjoy the boater-friendly vibe at famed Yacht Basin Provision Company. Other worthy attractions include a visit to the North Carolina Maritime Museum of Southport, followed by a warm welcome at Southport Marina and the Fish Tales Tiki Bar, where there’s also a convenient launch ramp.

Further down the line, South Harbor Marina has developed into a popular stop, due in part to Joseph's, which serves up creative Italian cuisine along with a clientele of friendly locals who know their area's boating. If your'e looking for a ramp, you'll find one about a mile down Dutchman's Creek--which also offers quiet cruising and anchorage.

Hopping Spot

Just across the ICW, 14-mile-long Oak Island has grown into a hopping vacation spot. Boaters can take advantage of the beach and more by heading to Blue Water Point Marina, where full services, a ramp, and The Fish House Restaurant await. The beach is just a short two-block walk. Southport and Oak Island are both popular launching spots for fisherman, thanks to consistent runs of king mackerel and more.

After passing by the community of St. James Plantation and through the mouth of Lockwoods Folly River (where you'll find great upstream cruising for smaller craft), the next few outlying islands offer a busy passage along the ICW. Holden Beach, Ocean Isle Beach, and Sunset Beach are all worthy of exploration, but Calabash should definitely be on the menu of every boater in the area.

Following the ICW, you briefly detour into South Carolina before Calabash Creek leads you back into North Carolina and into the village of Calabash and its inordinate number of restaurants. This, friends, is a classic place for seafood and a great boating destination. With restaurants dating back to the 1940s, Calabash-style seafood is now known all along the coast and inland. The tone is casual and seafood tends toward the lightly battered, deep-fried style--served with coleslaw and hush puppies, of course. A seafood dinner washed down with a sweet iced tea seems like an ideal way to end (or start) an exploration of southeastern North Carolina. Maybe the restaurant will even play JT’s “Carolina In My Mind” for you.

Get the Word

*For further information about boating southeastern North Carolina and the rest of the coast, North Carolina’s Coastal Boating Guide is a great place to start. This fold-out map (and more) features: a detailed map (which should never replace proper charts); a list of around a dozen public boat ramps (there are also countless fee-based ones at marinas); listings of agencies for boating, tourism, fishing, and more; information on more than 140 marinas and boatyards; and super summaries of more than 50 points of interest. It's available by calling 877/DOT-4YOU or logging onto ncwaterways.com.

*Those interested in fishing should start by searching ncfisheries.net or by contacting North Carolina Marine Fisheries in Morehead City at (800) 682-2632.

2010-05-25T10:45:00.001-04:00

TICKET TO RIDE

Since the mid-1920s, ferries have carried people and cars around eastern North Carolina. From Southport in the southeastern part of the state all the way up throughout Ocracoke, Hatteras, and Knotts Island, North Carolina’s ferries can be a convenient and enjoyable way to spend a weekend traveling along the coast.

Early ferries were privately operated and connected the region’s small coastal communities. Operations like that of Captain Toby Tillett served Oregon Inlet and other waterways. They were basically created to provide transportation for people, food, medicine, and other goods and services.

Originally published in Our State Magazine

The State of North Carolina began subsidizing the private ferries in 1934 and, in 1947, the state’s Department of Transportation launched the first route of the North Carolina Ferry Division (between Manns Harbor and Roanoke Island). The system has expanded over the years to become one of the largest ferry operations in North America, with seven routes and an eighth (Corolla to Currituck) in the planning stages. With 23 ferries operating and more than 400 permanent exployees on staff, North Carolina's ferry system is second only to Washington State's 28-ferry fleet in size. Ferries operate on Currituck and Pamlico sounds, as well as the Neuse, Pamlico, and Cape Fear River.

In a typical year, more than 2.5 million residents and visitors--and more than one million vehicles--ride North Carolina’s coastal ferries. “Not only are North Carolina's ferries a vital transportation link for coastal communities, they are also a great way to explore our state,” said Jerry Gaskill, the director of the state's Ferry Division.

Starting Out

Since my wife, Cele, and I live on Oak Island, near Southport, starting from the Southport ferry and proceeding up the coastline is an obvious choice for us. We plan to spend our first night in Ocracoke and our second night in Duck, but the beauty of taking the ferry is that you have lots of flexibility. Of course, our weekend could easily be done in reverse or even expanded to include more overnights along the way.

The Southport ferry is already a familiar way for us to get from Oak Island to Carolina Beach, Wilmington, and further afield. This quick crossing of 30 minutes is one of the shortest ferry rides in the system (Cherry Branch - Minnesott, at 20 minutes, is the shortest). Driving onto the ferry--and the feeling of anticipation it brings--is always one of the most enjoyable parts of any trip across the water. The process is efficient and, on crowded ferries, we’re always amazed how many vehicles (anywhere from 18 to 53) they can pack onto the variously sized vessels.

The Southport-Fort Fisher ferry offers year-round service, with a couple of additional trips in summer and winter to accommodate both commuters and vacationers. On this trip, one of the crew members saw us looking at Oak Island’s lighthouse through binoculars and he informs us that this run is the only one where passengers can see three lighthouses in one trip (the other two are Bald Head Island’s Old Baldy and Price’s Creek Lighthouse). He also explains the unique color schemes of the boats--the ferry Southport is painted with the colors of Duke University, while other ferries in the system are painted with the colors of other universities and colleges throughout the state.

Far too quickly, the ferry docks at Fort Fisher and we drive back onto land. The drive through Fort Fisher, which was an important Civil War Confederate stronghold, leads past the wonderful North Carolina Aquarium at Fort Fisher, making for a great stop for veteran state aquarium addicts like us (as well as first-timers destined to become addicted).

The next ferry on our tour leaves from quiet Cedar Island, and the drive northeast out of Morehead City is especially pretty and shouldn’t be rushed (plan on about an hour or so). The Cedar Island-Ocracoke ferry can be a real time- (and gas-) saver for those traveling along the coast. Thanks to its length and scenery, it’s also become one of our favorite routes. The trip in either direction typically takes about two hours and 15 minutes, but after the four hour drive from Fort Fisher to Cedar Island, it’s nice to let someone else do the “driving” the rest of the way to Ocracoke.

The trip from Cedar Island to Ocracoke offers lots of time for wildlife watching, talking to fellow passengers or crew members (which typically number from four to six), and thoroughly exploring your chosen mode of transportation. A crew member mentions that the ferry service's home port is based in Morehead City and that there's a repair and maintenance facility in Manns Harbor. He also tells us that two of the ferries were actually built in New Bern Shipyard and that today’s ferries average about 10 knots and can float in as little as six feet of water when fully loaded.

The Cedar Island-Ocracoke ferry arrives and departs right in “downtown” Ocracoke Village’s Silver Lake Harbor, so it was a short drive to our chosen accommodations. Ocracoke offers a wide range of options for the night, and we select The Castle Bed & Breakfast Inn and Villas on Silver Lake, a rambling property that includes uniquely furnished guest rooms, as well as villas with studio bedrooms and suites for more space or longer stays.

Ocracoke Village is ideally explored on foot and we won't get back in our car until it was time to catch the next ferry Saturday morning. The leisure options in Ocracoke include fishing, kayaking, a couple of small museums, shopping, and more, but we opted for the simple pleasures of visiting the squatty 75-foot Ocracoke Lighthouse and checking the menus of various restaurants to decide where we’ll have dinner tonight. We opt for the Back Porch Restaurant, which was highly recommended by innkeeper Steve Wright back at The Castle. Our tastebuds and stomachs agree, thanks to fresh seafood dishes, which are prepared plainly or with interesting sauces, like Vietnamese lime. Freshly baked breads, sumptuous desserts, seating on a screened porch, and friendly service all enhance the Back Porch experience.

Afterwards, we stroll back to The Castle and, though we hate to leave Ocracoke Island, we're both already looking forward to another ferry ride in the morning.

From Ocracoke to Hatteras

A 16-mile drive along the Atlantic Ocean through Cape Hatteras National Seashore takes us to the popular Ocracoke-Hatteras ferry. Each day, workhorse ferries depart both Ocracoke and Hatteras every hour from 5:00 a.m. to midnight, with three additions in the morning and one in the evening on the half-hour from spring to fall. This 40-minute crossing is unique in that it is one of four Ferry Division offerings that’s free of charge. The other three are: Currituck-Knotts Island; Bayview-Aurora; and Cherry Branch-Minnesott. A ferry employee once told us that the reason for the free rides is to accommodate the large numbers of commuters as well as the many school students who travel by ferry every day.

From the fishing village of Hatteras, we head along the coastline, with occasional stops on both sides of the road to enjoy lots of protected wildlife and scenery--we're still in the Cape Hatteras National Seashore. We then head to Manteo for a fun waterfront lunch at Poor Richard’s Sandwich Shop, where the creative made-to-order sandwiches (often featuring local seafood) are worth the drive inland.

From Manteo, we take the “slow” road along the beach, marveling at many houses precariously perched above the sand (and sometimes waves). We don't dally, however, because we want to take full advantage of our one-night stay at The Sanderling Resort & Spa.

A great place to arrive after a day on and near the water, The Sanderling overlooks the Atlantic Ocean to the east and Currituck Sound to the west. With an ocean view from our room's balcony, treatments at the full-service spa, and an incredible meal at the resort's on-site restaurant, The Left Bank, we find it an easy choice to once more park our car until the next day.

On Sunday morning, we contemplate continuing our ferry adventure by retracing our drive and ferry routes--or maybe even trying one of the other ones to the north and south--but, we decide to complete the “circle” by driving back on US highways 64 and 17 and comparing the two experiences.

The return drive is, as expected, uneventful and we find ourselves yearning for the next time we drive onto a ferry. We decide that you can't simply compare driving and ferry riding in terms of cost and time. In the end, getting there can truly be half the fun--especially if you take the ferry.

To Know More

Visit the Ferry Service's website at www.ncferry.org for information and schedules or call (800) 293-3779 to make reservations. You can also call 511, the state’s free travel information hotline, to check on road conditions on your way to or from the ferry.

Frequently Asked Ferry Questions

*Reservations are offered only on the Cedar Island-Ocracoke and Swan Quarter-Ocracoke routes. Reservations must be made in advance by calling the ferry terminal from which you will depart and you must claim your reservation at least 30 minutes prior to departure.

*The ferry system can accommodate any size of car, trailer, or RV that can operate on the highway and special permits are available for vehicles longer than 65 feet.

*Pets are permitted on ferries, as long as they are in the vehicle or on a leash.

*Restroom facilities are available at all ferry terminals and aboard all ferries; ADA restrooms are accessible at all shore facilities and on many vessels.

*Food and drink vending machines are available at all ferry terminals and on most ferries, with coffee service provided at most terminals and on some ferries (see website for a list). In addition, several Ferry Division stores sell clothing, hats, cups, and other ferry memorabilia and gifts.

If You're Going

*The Castle Bed & Breakfast Inn and Villas on Silver Lake
P.O. Box 908
Ocracoke, NC 27960
800-471-8848 or 252-928-3505
http://www.thecastlebb.com/

*The Sanderling Resort & Spa
1461 Duck Road
Duck, NC 27949
800-701-4111 or 252-261-4111
http://www.thesanderling.com/

*The Back Porch Restaurant
110 Back Road
Ocracoke, NC 27960
252-928-6401
Hours: Daily, 5pm-9pm

2010-05-25T10:39:00.003-04:00

NO BRIDGE, NO CARS, NO HIGH-RISES

Bald Head Island invites you to be at one with nature

John Donne may have said, “No man is an island,” but cruising yachtsmen know that every man and woman can be one with an island when they arrive by water. That’s certainly true of North Carolina’s Bald Head Island--which is reachable only by boat.

Quite simply, there’s not another boating destination like it.

What makes Bald Head Island different? In some ways, it’s what’s missing: No bridge connects it to the mainland; no cars are allowed; and there are no big buildings--10,000 of the island’s 12,000 total acres are beach, marsh, and maritime preserves.

Originally published in Southern Boating

What Bald Head does have includes: a bustling full-service marina; rich maritime history (including North Carolina’s oldest lighthouse); 14 miles of beaches; 200-plus species of wildlife; world-class golf and tennis; outdoor activities from kayaking to nature hikes to fishing on nearby, famed Frying Pan Shoals; and a variety of accommodation, dining, and shopping options.

Located in Harbour Village, the marina is the arrival point for Bald Head Island visitors in their own boats or on the ferry from Southport. A lighted entrance channel makes it easily accessible from the Intracoastal Waterway (two miles from MM 307) or the Atlantic Ocean (near Cape Fear River Buoy 13A) via a deepwater shipping channel. Boat slips in the ice-free basin range from 30 to 100 feet for transient dockage, with yachts to 115 feet accommodated on T-heads. The marina features 30-, 50-, and 100-amp electrical hookups (some have cable TV access and there’s also wireless internet) plus gas and diesel fuel via high-flow pumps.

There’s a lot within walking distance of the Marina--no golf cart or bike rental needed, though both are helpful when heading further afield. The Dockmaster Convenience Store covers basics and more. Eb & Flos Steambar is the place to go for fresh seafood and to meet fellow cruisers and island residents in-the-know. Adjacent River Pilot Café is more formal and well worth a reservation. Golf cart and bike rentals are nearby, as well as kayak rentals, a lending library, and special events at Harbourside Pavilion

Bald Head Island is one of those places that makes the Atlantic migration fun and comfortable for small boat owners. A place like The Elements makes you hope to get weathered in. Reached by foot or golf cart (included with a stay), the one-bedroom studios are located right on the water and offer great views; their small kitchenettes are bigger than on most galleys. Booked through the Bald Head Island Limited, an Elements stay comes with varied club membership options. Those staying onboard their boats also have the option of purchasing temporary memberships to the Shoals Club or Bald Head Island Club.

Live Like a Lighthouse Keeper

For even more space and longer stays, there are a wide variety of house rental options throughout the island. Among many choices, the three Cap’n Charlie cottages seem ideal for cruisers who love maritime history.

Captain Charles Norton Swan lived his dream life on Bald Head Island, lighting the lamp to put the new Cape Fear Lighthouse into service in 1903 and then proceeding to man the Cape Fear Light Station for the next 30 years. Modern visitors can now temporarily live like Cap’n Charlie, thanks to three newly renovated lighthouse keeper cottages that are available for rental. The three wood frame dwellings overlooking a wide beach were originally built in the early 1900s.

“The keeper cottages are symbolic of Bald Head Island’s rich and unique history,” says Kent Mitchell, president and CEO of Bald Head Island Limited. “Our motivation in renovating them was to restore and preserve the character of the homes, providing guests with a first-hand opportunity to experience the island’s history for themselves.”

Located on the island's southeastern tip, the cottages make for a truly unusual stay. They’ve been completely renovated and furnished with all modern conveniences, including a gourmet kitchen with top-end appliances and a peaceful porch and deck overlooking the wide dunes. Visitors will also enjoy many historic black-and-white photos of Cap’n Charlie and the island from the early-1900s.

The best place to continue an exploration of the island is along the banks of Bald Head Creek, in the first lighthouse, Old Baldy. Here, the Smith Island Museum of History is located in a reconstructed lighthouse keeper’s cottage from the 1850s, one of three once located around Old Baldy. Smith Island was an earlier name for this island of creeks, wild dunes and a maritime forest.

The interesting little museum features an eclectic collection of island memorabilia, including Capt. Charlie’s pocket watch, a Lighthouse Service engineer’s uniform, several Civil War artifacts and more. From there, it’s a short stroll to Old Baldy, where a circular wooden staircase leads 108 steps into the lighthouse’s lantern room for a great view of the island.

Event-full

Whether visiting with a boat or making a special trip without it, the island hosts a wide range of annual events luring many veteran visitors. These include Memorial Day Weekend (with a crab-cracking party and Parade of Homes); early-June’s Fishing Rodeo; Fourth of July's famed Golf Cart Parade; August’s Pirate Weekend; September’s Labor Day Beach Music Extravaganza, and the North Carolina Wine & Food Weekend.

Bald Head Island also operates the new Deep Point Marina, an 82-slip full-service marina on the Cape Fear River near the charming town of Southport. It accommodates visiting boats 30 to 102 feet with up to 10-foot draft. The basin has a lighted entrance channel and there’s fuel service, full electric hook-ups, cable TV, and wi-fi. This marina is adjacent to the new Bald Head Island Ferry Terminal, which includes a snack bar.

2010-05-25T10:29:00.000-04:00

FISH HOUSE LIAR

A passion for preserving the past makes Morehead City's

Rodney Kemp a top North Carolina

historian, educator, and storyteller

When Rodney Kemp was named North Carolina Historian of the Year in 2003, he was really rewarded for decades of telling lies! Kemp is what old-timers in the Morehead City area call a “fish house liar,” delivering dozens of time-worn history-based stories that actually contain many truths.

The Historian of the Year award is presented annually by the North Carolina Society of Historians. The society’s main activities are the promotion of works by historians, genealogists, archaeologists, and preservationists. Rodney Kemp couldn’t have been a better recipient. Although his stories may be embellished, they capture the voices and experiences that characterize generations of coastal Tar Heels.

Originally published in Our State Magazine

Kemp’s involvement with the Carteret County Museum of History and Art (now simply known as “The History Place”) is a perfect example of why he was named North Carolina Historian of the Year. The once small museum was originally located in the local community college’s church building, but a growing collection and interest in county history led locals like Kemp, along with lots of other volunteers and sponsors, to find and fund a new location.

Once a supermarket, the facility that now houses The History Place just happens to be located right next door to Kemp’s office, where he works in insurance. This proximity makes it quite convenient for Kemp to head over to the museum for “Fridays with Rodney.”

These popular one-hour lunchtime storytelling presentations take place on 18 Fridays a year, with Kemp covering a different topic each time and lots of long-time locals, new residents, and area visitors in attendance.

“We started them in January, 2001, right after the museum had opened the previous November. I honestly expected a dozen or so people, in that we really hadn’t publicized it, but we had more than 100 people that first time. We now average 100-200!”

So to Speak

Kemp was born in Tennessee, but raised in Morehead City. When the family gathered for supper each evening, Kemp’s father told stories and his mother recited poems she liked to collect. Kemp especially liked hearing stories about Carteret County and, specifically, an area locals still call “Down East” (which is the easternmost region part of this pretty coastal county). They also spent time discussing the delivery of stories and poetry.

Kemp can still remember being forced to recite a poem in front of his seventh grade class. “I guess that was the start of my speaking career, come to think of it.”

He graduated from Morehead City High School in 1964 and then attended High Point College in the 60s. He later graduated from Texas Tech University with a degree in journalism and minors in English and history. Both the major and minors would serve him well when he began telling stories in front of a crowd.

Kemp taught in elementary and high school for almost 15 years, including almost a decade of teaching local history to ninth graders at Carteret West High School. This laid the groundwork for public speaking and storytelling. Kemp says, “If you can keep ninth graders interested in your stories, you can keep anyone interested.”

In 1983, he began his insurance career in Carteret County. He then ran an agency in Wilmington from 1985 to 1988, before returning to his beloved Morehead City in 1989 to join the insurance agency, Chalk & Gibbs, where he's been ever since.

While in Wilmington, Kemp was writing an insurance policy for a local woman named May Craven. He learned she was a well-respected motivational speaker and, after Kemp saw her in action, he decided he could do something similar. For many years, he gave motivational speeches to a wide variety of audiences.

“I enjoy speaking, in that I honestly miss the classroom atmosphere at times,” says Kemp in a voice that’s obviously honed for public speaking. “I try to personalize and localize all of my stories, which keeps the audience’s attention.”

Bending a Few Yarns

Kemp speaks to about five Elderhostel groups a year and calls those presentations, along with his visits to fourth-grade classrooms, his acid test for new material. “The Elderhostel attendees don’t know me before I meet them and you can immediately get feedback about whether or not a story works. And those fourth-graders will quickly let you know they’re bored.”

Kemp now has seven main presentations, with his most popular series of stories called ‘Gentle on My Mind.’ “There are about 20 tales in that presentation and they all rest easy on the brain,” he says.

“Most everyone is waiting to laugh or cry and I like my stories to do one of these two things,” says Kemp. “We can get the punch lines, but we need to create the stories.”

Kemp doesn’t consider himself a natural speaker, though you wouldn’t know it when you watch him in front of groups. “I have to work very hard at it,” he admits. “Every presentation is scripted and practiced. That journalism major comes in handy when it comes to writing the stories. Along with May Craven back in Wilmington, Lewis Grizzard and Garrison Keillor are my main mentors.”

Kemp has averaged 100-150 presentations each year since 1990. “My family is obviously understanding of the time this takes. Chalk & Gibbs has always been quite supportive as well.”

Locals--and even my children--will hear someone else try to repeat a story I’ve told,” Kemp says. “They’ll then come to me and ask me to tell it again.”

During the North Carolina Seafood Festival each fall (October 1-3 this year), Kemp and another local storyteller, Sonny Williamson, team up and try to “out lie” each other in a “Fish House Liars” session. It’s become a popular part of the Festival with veteran attendees.

Kemp’s work for The History Place, along with the state award, led to the museaum establishing a Rodney B. Kemp Gallery in his honor. Along with information about Kemp and the award, the gallery will eventually present lots of local history--and maybe a few fish house lies!

2010-05-25T10:25:00.001-04:00

A COUPLE OF KAYAKERS

If the word "kayak" brings to mind gliding along the coast or a joyous ride through the estuary of your favorite river, then you're John and Angela Pagenstecher's kind of person. On the other hand, if you're a little intimidated by the whole idea of plugging yourself into the hole of a slender plastic boat, but you're still willing to look into it, John and Angela want to put your mind at ease and your body into a sea kayak.

For the Pagenstechers, owners of Kayak Carolina and Carolina Coastal Adventures, piloting boats that trace their lineage back to ancient Eskimos ranks high as both adventure and business venture.

Originally published in Southern Living

Both originate under the red roof of their Carolina Beach company, whose offerings include tours by kayak and powerboat, fishing and marine education programs. "It's fun every day," says John, who takes groups and individuals on tours of the lower Cape Fear River and other sites nearby. His wife, meanwhile, teaches somewhat-skilled and completely inexperienced customers that they can pilot kayaks and enjoy themselves. "Angela is one of the top instructors here in the Southeast," John says. "She has a wonderful teaching demeanor. She even teaches instructors how to be instructors."

EARLY RISERS

All that fun means hard work for John and Angela, especially in the summer. "My wife and I show up here in the summertime at 5 or 5:30am, depending on when the sun's coming up," he says. He adds that they have to get out of bed an hour before that. "Every day in the summer we finish with a sunset tour of some sort. We're still with the business when the sun goes down."

He's not complaining, however. "I get to take people fishing for a living," he adds. "Angela gets to take people on kayak tours and teach them how to paddle. It'a a pretty nice job."

FIRST VOYAGE

When John Pagenstecher and Angela Marshall set out to kayak the length of North Carolina’s coast back in 1998, they couldn’t have guessed that their paddling adventure would lead to their life's work or a life together.

Angela, the manager for a Hilton Head outdoors shop at the time, was already an experienced kayak instructor when she met John, a sales representative for a boatmaker. They took one trip together, 312 miles from Virginia Beach to Carolina Beach, North Carolina, over 15 days. A spark, so tiny they were barely acknowledging it by the end of the trip, grew quickly into a romance and a business.

They started with just 12 kayaks. After taking it one stroke at a time for the last seven years, they now run 150 kayaks and 2 powerboats and employ up to 18 staff members in the busy season.

HIDDEN TREASURES

The core business, however, involves boats. While the Pagenstechers sell boats, their bread and butter involves instruction and tours that last anywhere from a couple of hours to several days. They call it discovery by adventure.

"This is an unbelievable area," John says. Part of that relates to the history of the river, an area where 3 lighthouses remain from more than 20 that have been built since the early 1800s. Having immersed himself in the history, John enjoys sharing his love of the local lore with his guests.

He likes to tell, for instance, about how Fort Caswell, built during the Revolutionary War, saw numerous casualties during the Civil War. Yet not a single shot was fired; the men died of smallpox.

He's read up on the local pirate Stede Bonnett (who eventually got hung for his crimes) so he'll have tidbits to share. "We're not historians by any stretch of the imagination," John syas, "but having taken out thousands of people (on tours) we've probably fielded most of the odd questions."

NATURAL WONDERS

One of their popular tours starts at the National Estuarine Research Reserve, and the marine animals nearby always give tourists something interesting to see. "We have a number of people with a variety of degrees in marine biology who work for us so they can shed light on the wildlife," John says.

John and Angela’s kids camps draw crowds of eager youngsters to weeklong offerings that might include such activities as kayaking, fishing, field trips and projects in the marine education center.

When the school year starts, the company especially focuses on educational programs for students. Group sizes range from 12 to 117 kids. Activities may last half a day or several days.

Some schools keep coming back. "Kids from Gaston Day School stay with us for four days every fall. We pull out all the stops for them. We take them fishing, we take them kayaking, and we teach them about sea turtles," John says. "It's fun. Those kids are so eager to learn and are so well behaved, and they send us great thank-you notes."

Repeat customers leave no doubt that the Pagenstechers' customers enjoy their outings. "When a family comes out for a kayak trip, they might be in the area for a week, and they end up coming back here for three other things during their stay. If business is clicking, it's fun," John says. Still, he hopes to see the business reach its full potential financially in terms of more consistent year-round business.

"Hopefully, we can realize the fruits of the effort that we've put into it," he adds. "It hasn't been easy, and it's taken a lot of dedication. We've planted the seed, and the plant has growth. Now we'd like to see the flower blossom."

For more information: Call 910/458-9111, or visit adventure@kayakcarolina.com or www.carolinacoastaladventures.com

ON THE WATER

The season for Carolina Coastal Adventures generally runs from early-spring to late-fall. They start educational field trips for public, private, and home school programs first and then move into kayak tours and fishing charters as the days get warmer. “Our three-and-a-half hour sightseeing tour is the most popular boat tour option,” says John. “That tour and all of the others can include lots of wildlife, but we can also see and visit historic lighthouses, deserted beaches and islands, and much more.”

Other popular excursions by boat include: flexible fishing trips, visits around Bald Head Island (including the Old Baldy lighthouse), bird watching, and ferry service to help kayakers reach even more remote spots. For longer trips, they’ll provide a gourmet picnic.

The most popular kayak tour explores the bay area south of Fort Fisher, with lots of nature viewing. Other paddling destinations can include Carolina Beach State Park, Cape Fear River, Masonboro Island, and the Black River.

2010-05-25T10:22:00.000-04:00

GET TO KNOW MANTEO

A weekend on the waterfront doesn't necessarily have to include the waves of the Atlantic--Manteo's fall weather and scenery make this the perfect time of year to experience small town life at it's best in the land of the Lost Colony.

“For more than 30 years, October has been my favorite month on the Outer Banks,” says Horace Whitfield, executive director of Roanoke Island’s Elizabethan Gardens. “The water and days are still warm, the nights are cool, and the subtle hues of marsh, sound, and sky at sunset are beyond compare.”

Originally published in Our State Magazine

Thanks to places like Manteo, a trip to the Outer Banks doesn't have to be all about the beach. In fact, you could easily spend a fall weekend exploring this cozy seaside town and the rest of Roanoke Island without ever taking the short drive over to the Atlantic Ocean. The departure of seasonal visitors leaves locals relaxed, and your walking tour will likely include residents waving to you from the porches of historic homes.

Of course, members of the original “Lost Colony” wouldn’t recognize Roanoke Island today (though they probably would be quite at home in The Elizabethan Gardens). They’d certainly be happy to find modern conveniences in Manteo they could never have imagined, including wonderful inns, a varied dining scene, eclectic shops, and a variety of attractions. Given all of these options, they probably wouldn’t have mysteriously left the island.

Roanoke Island was the location of the first English attempt at colonization. As told for more than 65 years in the summer outdoor symphonic drama, The Lost Colony, 117 men, women, and children, landed on Roanoke Island in 1587. They only lasted a few years before vanishing without a trace. Their fate is still a mystery, but much of the history now known can be explored at the Fort Raleigh National Historic Site and Roanoke Island Festival Park (home to the 69-foot Elizabeth II, a reproduction of the 1585 sailing ship that Sir Walter Raleigh's colonists took to the New World). Along with these two well-known attractions, there’s much more to fill a weekend in Manteo and the rest of Roanoke Island.

Stay Awhile

The Roanoke Island Inn is one of many excellent places to rest during your weekend of exploration. The sprawling white clapboard inn with dark green shutters is typical of Manteo architecture. Overlooking the waterfront and just a short walk along the boardwalk to everything in downtown, The Roanoke features eight unique rooms (including two family suites), stunning gardens surrounding a pond, and a large lobby where continental breakfast is served out of the communal butler’s pantry. There’s also a wonderful two-bedroom bungalow that includes a galley kitchen (but no cooking facilities).

Innkeeper Elizabeth Blizzard is the perfect host; she was born and raised in Manteo and can provide practically any advice a visitor may need concerning dining, shopping, and attractions. She also provides lots of little touches for guests--like stocking the lobby’s butler’s pantry with snacks and providing refrigerator space for storing wine or other perishable souvenirs you bring back to the inn. After a long day of sightseeing, the inn's shady backyard and breezy second-floor porch overlooking both the water are perfect spots to unwind.

With 25 individually decorated rooms and suites, the Tranquil House Inn is another excellent choice. Tranquil House may look like it’s been in Manteo for more than a century, but it’s actually opened in the 1980s. The third floor rooms feature high ceilings, while those on the second floor offer convenient access to a popular deck looking out on Roanoke Island Festival Park. Donny Just, who owns and operates the inn and it's restaurant, says both stays and meals somehow seem more “tranquil” in the fall, when visitors can linger over a sunset or dessert.

If a smaller bed and breadfast is more your weekend style, downtown Manteo obliges with convenient choices like The Cameron House Inn , where some rooms feature fireplaces, and The White Doe Inn, built in 1898.

Once you’ve established your Manteo base, it’s time to explore. Unless you just have to have a beach fix, you won’t need to leave Roanoke Island for the rest of the weekend--and you'll rarely even have to get back in your car.

Take a Walk

One great way to explore historic Manteo and the rest of the island is to buy Molly Harrison’s great guidebook, Manteo Walking Tour and Roanoke Island Guidebook. Now in its fourth edition, this excellent history-, information-, and picture-filled little book will be a constant companion during your visit. Pick one up at Manteo Booksellers, a classic bookshop run by book lovers.

In her introduction, Outer Banks resident expert Harrison says, “Designed to show you the entire historic section of town, the Manteo Walking Tour is like having your own personal guide, only it’s even better because it allows you to walk at your own pace. All along the way, there are wonderful places to shop, eat, and sightsee, and we’ve pointed them out for you as they appear on the route.”

Highlights of this 45-stop walk include: Ye Old Pioneer Theatre (which started showing movies in 1918 and still does so today); the George Washington Creef Boathouse (now the North Carolina Maritime Museum on Roanoke Island); a replica of the Roanoke Marshes Lighthouse; and the White Doe Inn (long the home of Theodore and Rosa Midgett Meekins, also known as Rory and Dory--as “wreck commissioner,” Rory was in charge of salvaging shipwrecks). Many of the town's historic houses are eloquently described in the book.

The walking tour can last anywhere from an hour to an afternoon, but it’s sure to end with hunger pangs. Tranquil House Inn’s 1587 restaurant is a great Friday night choice, thanks to a beautiful waterfront view and cuisine prepared by chef Donny King. The menu includes a wide variety of fresh seafood and meat choices, with the waiter (and the menu) going to great lengths to explain the creative preparation and presentation of entrees. The varied selection of char-grilled chops (New York strip, filet mignon, king salmon, and more), with roasted garlic mashed potatoes, is always popular. A meal here provides a great introduction to the Manteo dining scene, thanks to the tastily “complicated” dishes from King and a view that’s definitely fit for an Elizabethan king or queen.

Saturday morning is an ideal time to head out to two classic Roanoke Island attractions: the Elizabethan Gardens and the North Carolina Aquarium on Roanoke Island. Both have something for everyone. Several local lodgings provide free bikes, which are a great way to get around the island.

It’s best to start with The Elizabethan Gardens, where a quiet fall morning is simply sublime. This sprawling 10-and-a-half-acre haven pays tribute to the early colonists with year-round garden gems that include a large variety of colorful annuals and perennials. Look for chrysanthemums along paths and in the Royal Courtyard or Sunken Garden.

Fort Raleigh and the waterfront theater where The Lost Colony is staged are both next to the Elizabethan Gardens. Nearby, the North Carolina Aquarium at Roanoke Island features highlights that include aquariums ranging from 300 to 285,000 gallons, two touch tanks, and a fascinating “Storms” exhibit that highlights many hurricanes.

Head back to the Manteo waterfront for a tasty lunch at Poor Richard’s Sandwich Shop. This locals favorite for more than 20 years has booths for inside dining, as well as a porch overlooking the water. The sandwiches, entrees, and specials are made to order and often feature seafood caught locally.

Browsing the Shops

It’s easy to walk off lunch in downtown Manteo, thanks to a choice of attractions and shopping. Another great option is to get a post-lunch caffeine fix at The Coffeehouse on Roanoke Island.

For those who would rather shop, there are plenty of options. Locals say 400 Budleigh Street Antiques Mall has one of the best selections, thanks to more than 20 rooms stuffed with everything from tables and chairs to vintage Christmas decorations and classic kitchen items.

Clemons on Budleigh is another draw for antiques lovers. The shop, which owner Elizabeth Anderson says was the first one in Manteo, has four rooms filled with furniture and more. Plus, they even rent out an adjacent (and charming) two-bedroom cottage that was relocated to Manteo from the shores of the Outer Banks. Elizabeth says Manteo has grown into an antiques shopping destination over the years.

Sea and Sounds Gallery is a great place to start for an overview of the arts shopping scene, thanks to a variety of Outer Banks artists and media.

Many other shopping finds can be viewed by strolling Manteo’s streets. Be sure to find Endless Possibilities, a one-of-a-kind place features hand-crafted items, including woven rugs, placemats, wall hangings, bags, boas, clogs, and much more. Proceeds from Endless Possibilities' sales go to the Outer Banks Hotline Crises Intervention and Prevention Center. Most of what’s for sale was crafted from donated materials by volunteers and folks who just wandered in off the sidewalk (typically 5-15 a day). Any one item will typically have had many weavers.

For those more attracted by attractions than shopping, Roanoke Island Festival Park is just a short stroll across the bridge. Highlights here include costumed interpreters, the multi-sensory Roanoke Adventure Museum, a theater, and, of course, the can't-miss Elizabeth II.

Dinner Hour

After a full day of shopping and sightseeing, make the short drive to the Weeping Radish Brewery and Bavarian Restaurant, another Manteo must-see. Freshly brewed beer is the highlight, but there are also hot Bavarian-style pretzels and lots of other German cuisine, plus a great outdoor picnic area that’s packed during September’s popular Oktoberfest.

Owner and founder Uli Bennewitz opened the Weeping Radish in 1986, after he grew homesick for his native Bavaria’s food and beer. His beer, food, and events have all developed a loyal following. Next up for Weeping Radish fans is the new Farm Brewery and Eco Farm near Grandy, with a country store and modern brewery complex slated to open later this year.

If you'd rather walk than drive, downtown’s Full Moon Cafe is another great dinner option. You can dine inside or right out on the lively sidewalk. The bistro-style menu is quite creative, with a range of seafood and meat dishes, as well as enticing vegetarian options. Locals at the Full Moon recommend the flavorful pasta and quesadilla choices.

Sunday morning offers an ideal opportunity for a quiet stroll around still-slumbering Manteo. The coffee’s already brewing at The Coffeehouse and another day of exploration awaits. They’re might even be time for a quick trip to the beach.

If You're Going

For further general information about Manteo and Roanoke Island, contact the Outer Banks Visitors Bureau at (877) 629-4386 or (252) 473-2138, or visit www.outerbanks.org .

The Roanoke Island Inn
305 Fernando Street
Manteo, NC 27954
(877) 473-5511 or (252) 473-5511
http://www.roanokeislandinn.com/
Open from Easter until the end of October.

Tranquil House Inn and 1587 Restaurant
405 Queen Elizabeth Avenue
Manteo, NC 27954
(252) 473-1404 (inn)
(252) 473-1587 (restaurant)
http://www.1587.com/

North Carolina Aquarium at Roanoke Island
374 Airport Rd.
Manteo, NC 27954
(866) 332-3475
Hours: Daily, 9am-5pm
Closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day, and New Years's Day
Admission is $7 for adults, $6 for seniors and active military, $5 for children ages six-17, and free for children five and younger

Elizabethan Gardens
1411 National Park Drive
Manteo, NC 27954
(252) 473-3234
Hours: Open daily year-round, but hours vary seasonally. In October, the gardens are open 9am-5pm daily.
Closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, and New Year's Day.
Admission is $6 for adults, $5 for seniors ages 62 and older, $4 for children six-18, and free for children five and younger

Weeping Radis Brewery and Bavarian Restaurant
525 Old U.S. Highway 64
Manteo, NC 27954
(800) 896-5403

Elizabethan Tymes: A Country Faire

October 1st and 2nd are particularly fun weekend days to visit Manteo, thanks to Elizabethan Tymes: A Country Faire. Held at Roanoke Island Festival Park, this year’s event will be held rain or shine Saturday, October 1, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sunday, October 2, from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. The Baronial Court will arrive at the Town of Manteo docks at 10 a.m. on Saturday and will be escorted across the Cora Mae Basnight Bridge to formally open the event.

Queen Elizabeth I’s ascension to the throne ushered in the English Renaissance of 1558-1603. Theater, art, and literature flourished during her reign. Her death in 1603 signified the end of Tudor line of rulers, as well as a grand era of English history.

The Guilde of St. Andrew, based in Raleigh and frequent participants at Roanoke Island Festival Park, will take the lead in bringing Elizabethan England to Manteo. Joining them is Richmond, Virginia’s Guilde of Saint George. Both Guildes will offer a variety of events that will educate visitors about 16th century life.

Participants at Elizabethan Tymes: A Country Faire will step back in time 400 years to the Renaissance era. Children (and even some children at heart) are invited to dress in Elizabethan garb and learn dance of the period, enjoy juggling demonstrations, walk on stilts, and much more. There’s also a hobby horse race for those who make their own horse.

Additional period offerings include log hewing, 16th century cooking, cloth dyeing, blacksmithing, woodworking, and fiber processing and spinning. A 16th century marketplace will offer an array of items for sale, including pottery, jewelry, and a Tudor Shoppe. One highlight of each day is the grand entrance of the Lord of the Manor, his Lady, and their household.

The admission price for Faire is included in Roanoke Island Festival Park’s general admission ticket ($8 for adults, $5 for children 6-17, and free for children 5 and younger; ask about various “pass” deals). Admission is good for both days of the event. For additional information, visit www.roanokeisland.com or call (252) 475-1500.

2010-05-25T10:16:00.000-04:00

A ROYAL TREAT

South Carolina's Port Royal Sound

offers endless cruising opportunities

South Carolina's Port Royal Sound stretches from quiet St. Phillips Island in the northeast to the resort island of Hilton Head in the southwest, offering a varied cruising to ground to satisfy any taste. Solitude can be found in the sound's expansive salt marshes and the tranquil islets of St. Helena and Parris Island, while those seeking full-service marinas, interesting eateries and shore side diversions will also get their fill.

The Broad, Chechesee, Beaufort, and Colleton rivers meet in Port Royal Sound and lead to various island ports. The Intracoastal Waterway also winds through the sound, passing the ports of Beaufort, Port Royal and Harbour Town on Hilton Head Island.

Originally published in Southern Boating

Navigation in Port Royal Sound is as varied as its boating destinations. "One needs a good updated chart of local waters," says Capt. Wally Phinney, who runs Sea Wolf Charters out of Port Royal Landing Marina. "Port Royal Sound can get pretty nasty if the tide is going out against the offshore wind, which blows hard from the southwest right up on the sound."

Except for a few malicious sandbars, the large, natural harbor is quite deep, more than 60 feet in some places, and Capt. Wally raves about the great boating community, anchorages and abundant fishing found in the area.

Located north of the sound on the Beaufort River, the quaint city of Beaufort (the one pronounced Beeu-fort) is a beautiful spot to spend some time. Once docked at the full-service Downtown Marina, which accommodates transient vessels up to 175 feet, take a stroll to the bustling waterfront park. Arrive here in December, and you're smack in the middle of the historic district's Christmas festivities. Adjacent Bay Street has great shopping. Bay Street Jewelers sells the original Beaufort Hook Bracelet, a symbol of the historic town and region. Bay Street is also home to several restaurants with views over the Henry C. Chambers Waterfront Park and the Beaufort River. Plums serves up creative seafood dishes, while Luther's (located in an old pharmacy and general store) is known for tasty steaks.

Other sights to check out in Beaufort include the Federal-style John Mark Verdier House Museum; the Beaufort Arsenal Museum; and lots of private historic homes. For a more in-depth view, excellent guided tours are available through The Spirit of Old Beaufort and Jon's Walking History Tour. For those craving a night off the boat, the Rhett House Inn and the Beaufort Inn are charming lodges in the heart of the historic district.

Head south of Beaufort to Ladies Island and onto St. Helena Island, home to the Penn Center, the site of one of the country's first schools for freed slaves. At the turn for Penn Center, look for Gullah Grub restaurant, the place for some seriously local dishes such as barbecue ribs, fish chowder and lowcountry crab soup.

Penn Center houses a fascinating collection of 19 restored buildings, including Grant Cottage where Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. once stayed, a nature trail and the York W. Bailey Museum.

While boating in the Hunting Island area is not recommended due to difficult conditions, it's a pretty drive down to the island, and well worth a visit to Hunting Island State Park. Consistently ranked as the state’s most popular state park, it attracts more than one million visitors annually, though it is still east to find secluded spots in the sprawling grounds. Visitors can spend a night or more in one of the park's cabins.

The barrier island features five miles of beach, thousands of acres of marshland, tidal creeks, a maritime forest, a saltwater lagoon, and an ocean inlet (a popular fishing hole for those in-the-know). Dating back to the 1870s, the 170-foot Hunting Island Lighthouse is the state’s only publicly accessible historic lighthouse. It can be climbed for a couple of bucks and offers phenomenal views of the South Carolina coast.

Southwest of Beaufort, the town of Port Royal is another solid sound destination. Port Loyal Landing Marina makes a good base for exploring the Old Village of Port Royal and nearby Parris Island with accommodations for vessels up to 150 feet. The Marina offers rentals for visiting blue-water cruisers wishing to explore in a small skiff or a kayak.

Located a few miles south of the marina where the Beaufort River meets Battery Creek, the Old Village of Port Royal offers food, shopping, and quaint lodging, such as the Beaulieu Guest House. The 11th Street Dockside restaurant is a locals favorite, while Port Royal Seafood next door is the place to buy fresh fish to prepare back on the boat.

Parris Island is the base for the Parris Island Marine Corps Recruit Depot, where more than 20,000 new Marines graduate annually. The Parris Island Museum charts military history dating back to the 16th century.

While the port of Bluffton doesn't offer a full-service marina, it still makes for a pleasant day trip. Cruisers can anchor in the May River and dinghy into town or dock at the elegant Inn at Palmetto Bluff, which offers dockage but not a full-service marina (a meal and an overnight stay are highly recommended). Stop by the Heyward House Historic Center to pick up their helpful walking tour map, which will direct you to historic sites such as the Fripp House and the waterfront Church of the Cross.

Established in 1899, the Bluffton Oyster Company features fresh May River oysters in-season. Ask about docking at the Oyster Company for a few hours in exchange for a seafood purchase. Dinner, entertainment and local flavor can be found at Pepper's Porch located in an old tobacco-drying barn on May River Road--go early for some local color at the back Bar. Down the street, Squat & Gobble is another favorite.

Any Port Royal Sound exploration isn't complete without a stop at famed Hilton Head Island. One of the many allures of Hilton Head is the number of world-class marinas. "Boaters have a choice of eight marinas," says Leslie Whitener, Assistant Harbormaster at Harbour Town Yacht Basin for the past 25 years. "The island is extremely environmentally sensitive, with numerous nature preserves, public parks, and fifty-plus miles of nature trails and public pathways."

Shelter Cove Marina at Palmetto Dunes Resort is another ideal base. The full-service marina, which accommodates transient vessels up to 150 feet, in in close proximity to world-class dining, shopping, bike rentals, and all of the amenities and activities of the beautiful 2,000-plus-acre Palmetto Dunes Resort. Each year, the resort hosts Harborfest from June through August with events and live entertainment.

Once docked, there's lots to see and do on Hilton Head. Some unique possibilities include kayaking through the 11-mile saltwater lagoon system at Palmetto Dunes, horseback riding with Lawton Stables in the Sea Pines Nature Preserve, climbing the red-and-white Harbor Town Lighthouse, and exploring peaceful Pinckney Island Wildlife Refuge, which feature several nice anchorages.

The island's Coastal Discovery Museum features hands-on exhibits, tours, and educational programs that highlight the cultural heritage and natural history of the Lowcountry.

Port royal Sound's historic seaside towns, scenic anchorages, friendly full-service marinas, and fresh seafood restaurants provide crusiers a royal welcome to this South Carolina boating destination--and with a stately southern accent to boot.

2010-05-25T10:11:00.001-04:00

BOATING NORTH CAROLINA'S CAPE FEAR RIVER

With the boater-friendly city of Wilmington and a wide range of boating possibilities, North Carolina’s Cape Fear River is an ideal destination from spring to fall. Running due north from the Intracoastal Waterway and the Atlantic Ocean, the Cape Fear is a convenient Carolina treat.

As the state’s only river to feed directly into the open ocean, the Cape Fear is quite active commercially. Huge tankers, container ships, and more ply the river, but it’s wide and welcoming to power boats of all sizes. Add to this the charming city of Wilmington and a nice variety of marinas and facilities--you have an ideal boating destination.

Originally published in American Boating Association Beacon

The Cape Fear River has played an important role in state and U.S. history. Pirates roamed the river in the 1700s and a famous battle involving the pirate Stede Bonnet took place in 1718. In 1725, the port city of Brunswick was founded and thrived for many decades. Later in the century, it was eclipsed in commercial activity by another town to the north--which would eventually be called Wilmington.

The river was a hub of activity during and after the Revolutionary War, with tar and turpentine two of the major products. The region also hosted several Civil War battles, while Wilmington would be the last of the state’s coastal city’s to fall (Civil War buffs will enjoy historic Fort Fisher on Kure Beach). Today, Wilmington and the Cape Fear River are thriving, thanks to a bustling boating scene and a rejuvenated riverfront.

The area where the Cape Fear River meets the Atlantic is bordered by Bald Head Island to the east and Oak Island/Caswell Beach to the west. Approximately ten miles of the lower Cape Fear River is actually part of the Intracoastal Waterway, connecting Snows Cut in the north to the charming town of Southport, where the Intracoastal picks up its narrow passage again. This ten mile section is highlighted by Bald Head Island, the new North Carolina Aquarium at Fort Fisher on Kure Beach, relatively easy ocean access, and wide river passage.

Bald Head Island is a lightly developed destination accessible only by boat (residents use their private boats or the ferry to get on and off the island, traveling the island in golf carts once there). There’s limited shopping and dining, excellent beachcombing, and a nice marina (Bald Head Marina-910/457-7380).

Made up of the townships of Carolina Beach and Kure Beach, Pleasure Island borders the Cape Fear to the east. Along with the aquarium and Fort Fisher, the marina facilities and park activities at Carolina Beach State Park and Marina (910/458-8206) make for a nice stop. Coquina Harbour at Carolina Beach (910/458-5053), near Snows Cut, is another option.

North of Snows Cut, the river narrows and the marked channel is quite easy to follow. The commercial traffic can be a bit intimidating at first, but there’s plenty of room for all boating traffic.

Daybeacon #59 marks the way to Wilmington Marine Center and Wilmington to the east, as well as the mouth of the Brunswick River to the west (a nice sidetrip for boaters). Wilmington Marine Center (910/395-5055) is a great Cape Fear River base, with full modern facilities, friendly staff, complimentary cruising information, and easy access (by short taxi ride) into downtown. It’s also the only marina on the river offering both gasoline and diesel.

Historic Wilmington is situated right on the Cape Fear and the revitalized downtown area is a great place for boaters to enjoy sightseeing, shopping, and dining. The long list of highlights of any Wilmington visit has to include: walking along the river; taking a horse-drawn carriage tour; visiting one or more historic homes, like the Burgwin-Wright House, or simply enjoying the city’s architecture; the fascinating Cape Fear Museum; the new Louise Wells Cameron Art Museum; touring the famed Battleship North Carolina across the river; shopping at Chandler’s Wharf (and a meal at the adjacent Pilot House). Special events, including the North Carolina Azalea Festival in April and Riverfest in October, provide special reasons for boaters to stay overnight, as does a wide variety of inns and B&Bs right downtown (the Graystone Inn is a boater favorite).

Marina facilities along Wilmington’s riverfront include the public docks at the Hilton and elsewhere along the riverfront’s Riverwalk (910/341-7855) and J.W. Brooks Warehouse Dock (910/251-6635), but dockage space and facilities are limited and it’s best for boaters to call in advance.

Further north, more boating opportunities abound. Just north of the public dock area, the river divides in two. The western branch (still simply called the Cape Fear) gets quiet in a hurry, with peaceful boating up to Navassa and the northern section of the Brunswick River.

The eastern branch is known as the Northeast Cape Fear River and this is also popular with boaters. Cape Fear Marina-Bennett Brothers Yachts provides excellent marina facilities, as well as somewhat of a Mecca for fans of the company’s custom boats. This section of the river is also busy commercially, but less so the further north one heads.

Thus, from excellent facilities all along the river to the charming river city of Wilmington, there’s nothing to fear about visiting the Cape Fear River. In fact, the only fear would be passing it by during a trip along the Intracoastal!

DETAILS

For boating and tourism information, contact the Cape Fear Coast Convention & Visitors Bureau at 800/222-4757 or visit www.cape-fear.nc.us (they have an excellent visitors center in the old courthouse at 24 North Third Street). Claiborne Young’s book, Cruising Guide to Coastal North Carolina (www.cruisingguide.com), is also an excellent resource for boating in this area, as well as the rest of the state’s coastline.

2010-05-18T16:14:00.001-04:00

PLEASURE CRUISE

One of the many beauties of the Crystal Coast area of North Carolina is the amount of unspoiled coastline awaiting exploration. More than 55 miles of quiet coastal islands, maritime forests, and beaches make up the Cape Lookout National Seashore--and exploring the vast area (including the famed Cape Lookout lighthouse) by day is a favorite memory for many visitors. Those in the know don’t have to come back to civilization as the sun sets, however. If you’ve rented a houseboat for the weekend, you’re already “home” for the night.

Outer Banks Houseboats, a unique company based on Beaufort’s waterfront, offers a great way to spend a weekend along the quietest stretch of coastline in North Carolina. Whether it’s a romantic weekend for two or a huge gathering of family and friends, these well-appointed houseboats will lead to memories that will last you a lifetime.

Originally published in Our State Magazine

At Home on the Water

“My family had a houseboat when I was growing up in Morehead City and I still have fond memories of weekends spent on it,” says personable Outer Banks Houseboats owner, Perry Barrow. “It’s hard to beat spending the night out along Cape Lookout.”

Barrow, who has owned and operated Outer Banks Ferry Service for more than 15 years, started offering houseboat rentals in 2003. After a successful first season, he added a second larger houseboat in 2004. “Quite simply, my ferry customers were looking for a way to stay out at Cape Lookout, rather than having to take the ferry back at the end of the day,” he recalls. Ferry service manager Cindy Smith concurs, saying that many people are introduced to Cape Lookout through the ferry service out to nearby islands and then decide to rent a houseboat for a longer stay.

The advantages of enjoying the Crystal Coast by houseboat are many and can vary depending on who’s along for the ride and what you want to do once you anchor. Outer Banks Houseboats will deliver, anchor, and pick up the houseboat. You need only unpack once, and you'll have ample opportunities for independent exploration (each houseboat rental comes with a 21-foot Carolina Skiff). When everyone else has to head back to land, you can eat in or, if you prefer, head to an area restaurant before spending the night on the water.

Whether it’s for a weekend or longer, the setup for the start of a houseboat adventure is the same. The houseboat is docked right on the charming Beaufort waterfront at Barrow’s Outer Banks Ferry Service and, after loading provisions, Barrow or an experienced employee provides a briefing of the houseboat’s operations (you’ll quickly learn that everything is quite intuitive).

Take it Easy

The first question many people ask is whether they have to drive the rather large houseboat and the answer is a definitive “no.” Barrow or another captain typically pilots the houseboat to the anchorage of choice--a factor that depends on the wind and waves, as well as desired pursuits once anchored. One or more of the houseboat renters then follows in the Carolina Skiff, providing the perfect opportunity to practice piloting the easy-to-operate skiff and also a general “map” of how to get back to Beaufort in the skiff, if desired. There are several great restaurants on the town's waterfront, as well as shopping and the excellent North Carolina Maritime Museum, so you may indeed want to make the trip. Some renters choose to leave the houseboat at Barrow's dock for one or more of their rental nights to better enjoy a special event or Beaufort nightlife. However, most head out to quieter anchorages.

Guests staying more than two nights will get a short visit from Barrow or one of his staff to check on gas, propane, and holding tanks (renters only pay for the gas, oil, and propane they use on the houseboat and skiff).

Once out on Cape Lookout proper, it’s just a matter of choosing a calm spot. If you stay more than two nights, you can radio in and have the houseboat moved once during your stay. When the houseboat is anchored (and the Carolina Skiff tied up conveniently to its side), the pilot returns to Beaufort and your houseboat adventure begins in earnest, with abundant possibilities for adventures on and off the houseboat.

Make Waves

Your houseboat serves as haven and base for exploration of Cape Lookout National Seashore. This low-lying narrow ribbon of sandy islands runs from Ocracoke Inlet in the northeast to Beaufort Inlet to the southwest. The barrier islands basically consist of wide and bare beaches, low dunes covered with scattered grasses, flat grasslands, and salt marshes along the sound side.

For centuries, these islands served as major fishing bases, with several self-contained communities thriving on the nearby and abundant fishing. For instance, Portsmouth Village was chartered in 1753 and was once home to more than 1,000 people--today, it’s uninhabited, but the partially restored village is still fascinating to explore.

Heavily loaded fishing boats stayed on the deep water on the Atlantic Ocean side, while shallower draft boats plied the sound and maintained contact with the mainland for goods and services. The sound side of all the barrier islands have also long served as sheltered anchorages--for boats during storms (especially Northeasters), for ships hiding from enemy submarines during World War II, and for houseboats today.

Most houseboaters choose to anchor somewhere out near famed Cape Lookout and the Cape Lookout Lighthouse. Shackleford Banks is separated from South Core Banks by narrow Barden Inlet, with several quiet anchorages possible on either side (depending on the wind, tides, and more).

This base in the shadow of the lighthouse provides easy exploration of Shackleford Banks (home to more than 100 wild horses), the lighthouse (located on the southern tip of South Core Banks), and the even more deserted areas of North Core Banks farther north.

The Cape Lookout lighthouse is definitely a popular destination for day-trippers, but houseboat renters have the flexibility to head there early or late to avoid occasional crowds. The first lighthouse was built in 1812, but the current one became operational in 1859. The 163-foot lighthouse with the well-known “diamond” pattern still provides a beacon to those at sea (Barrow, a private pilot, says he and other pilots also use it as a navigational aid from the air).

Today, the Cape Lookout lighthouse complex includes the tower (climbing only available during four open house days a year) and the assistant keepers’ quarters, which serves as a visitor center and museum in-season. National Park Service rangers also provide informative programs in-season, including several history and ecology talks and walks. To the south down near Cape Point, there’s also a historic U.S. Coast Guard Station.

The National Park Service maintains a Visitor Center on nearby Harkers Island, which is easily reached by skiff. The visitor center is a great place to get more information about all of Cape Lookout National Seashore. It aslo offers a short orientation film, natural and cultural history exhibits, and a well-stocked bookstore. The excellent Core Sound Waterfowl Museum is within walking distance of the Visitor Center.

Shackleford Banks is also very popular with day-trippers, but houseboaters get to visit early or late in the day to avoid occasional crowds. Highlights here include possible wild horse sightings (just don’t get too close), beach picnics, and some of the best shelling along the east coast.

Farther afield, more experienced and adventurous boaters enjoy running the skiff north through Core Sound. Here, you’ll find more quiet anchorages and places to beach the boat.

All along the coastline, the natural world serves as another highlight. Possible sightings include egrets, herons, terns, pelicans, and lots of seagulls. The extensive maritime forest (especially on Shackleford Banks) is home to toads, tree frogs, diamond-back terrapins (especially appropriate for the lighthouse), and many shorebird nests. You’ll also notice several “ghost forests”--where advancing sand and salt spray leave sun-bleached tree skeletons protruding from the sand.

After all of these daytime explorations, it’s enjoyable to simply head back to the houseboat and all of it’s amenities. Your evening can include a hot shower, a cold drink or two, dinner (possibly even freshly-caught fish), and maybe a movie or simply lying out under the stars. It sure beats heading back to civilization.

Houseboat Basics

Outer Banks Houseboats currently features two different sizes and styles of houseboats, providing flexibility for the number and types of groups getting ready to hit the water. Each comes well equipped and they’ll even provide the provisions if requested. Both houseboats feature virtually every amenity anyone could want, including: full-size refrigerator (with icemaker); three-burner propane stove; microwave; toaster; gas grill; dinette; TV/DVD/CD/stereo; wardrobe storage; full-size shower; toilet; freshwater storage; air conditioning and heat; hammock; and spacious outdoor decking forward, aft, and above.

The 2003 Vagabond 35-foot x10-foot model is a great choice for a couple, two close-knit couples, or a small family. Equipped with a full-size bed, a pull-out sleeper sofa, and a dinette that can be made into a small bed, this craft can sleep up to six people. It’s powered by a 200 horsepower engine.

The 2004 46-foot x12-foot Luxury Aquacruiser is ideal for larger groups of any kind. It can sleep up to 10, thanks to a full-size bed, two large bunk beds (sleeping two each), a sleeper sofa, and the convertible dinette. Additional features of the Luxury Aquacruiser are an additional half-bath, a Bimini-style top on the upstairs deck, and an extra TV/DVD/CD/stereo combo in the master bedroom. It’s powered by two 115 horsepower engines.

Daily houseboat pleasures you may enjoy can include sunning and swimming, meal and snack preparation, reading, napping, and simply listening to the waves lapping against the houseboat’s hull.

The dining part of any houseboat adventure is definitely a highlight. Barrow’s houseboat assistant, Debbie Silvestrini, says most houseboat renters arrive with coolers and grocery bags full of fresh options for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, as well as beverages of choice. Some choose to wait until they’re in the area and then head to a local grocery store before transporting everything to the houseboat.

Others, however, ask Silvestrini to provision their houseboat for them (at cost) and she is happy to provide creative options for their meals, snacks, and beverages. She'll also try to accommodate special requests like bait and tackle for fishing or a cake for a special celebration.

The only things lest for you to bring are sheets, pillowcases, and blankets; bath towels; cards, games, books, DVDs and CDs; fishing gear; beach towels; and insect repellent. Silvestrini notes that some people choose to bring a supply of disposable dishware so they don’t even have to do dishes during their time on the houseboat. After all, who wants to do chores when there are so many activities to enjoy?

If you're going:

Outer Banks Houseboats
324 Front Street
Beaufort, NC 28516
(252) 728-4129
http://www.outerbankshouseboats.com/
Houseboats are generally available for rent from April to October. Packages include: “Weekend Adventure” (Friday morning to Sunday afternoon); “Weekday Adventure” (Monday morning to Thursday afternoon); and “Full Week Adventure” (Monday morning to Sunday afternoon). Rates start at $1,195 for the 35-foot houseboat and $1,295 for the 46-foot version. You can also rent both houseboats. Advanced reservations, for one or both houseboats, is recommend.