TICKET TO RIDE
Early ferries were privately operated and connected the region’s small coastal communities. Operations like that of Captain Toby Tillett served Oregon Inlet and other waterways. They were basically created to provide transportation for people, food, medicine, and other goods and services.
Originally published in Our State Magazine
The State of North Carolina began subsidizing the private ferries in 1934 and, in 1947, the state’s Department of Transportation launched the first route of the North Carolina Ferry Division (between Manns Harbor and Roanoke Island). The system has expanded over the years to become one of the largest ferry operations in North America, with seven routes and an eighth (Corolla to Currituck) in the planning stages. With 23 ferries operating and more than 400 permanent exployees on staff, North Carolina's ferry system is second only to Washington State's 28-ferry fleet in size. Ferries operate on Currituck and Pamlico sounds, as well as the Neuse, Pamlico, and Cape Fear River.
In a typical year, more than 2.5 million residents and visitors--and more than one million vehicles--ride North Carolina’s coastal ferries. “Not only are North Carolina's ferries a vital transportation link for coastal communities, they are also a great way to explore our state,” said Jerry Gaskill, the director of the state's Ferry Division.
Starting Out
Since my wife, Cele, and I live on Oak Island, near Southport, starting from the Southport ferry and proceeding up the coastline is an obvious choice for us. We plan to spend our first night in Ocracoke and our second night in Duck, but the beauty of taking the ferry is that you have lots of flexibility. Of course, our weekend could easily be done in reverse or even expanded to include more overnights along the way.
The Southport ferry is already a familiar way for us to get from Oak Island to Carolina Beach, Wilmington, and further afield. This quick crossing of 30 minutes is one of the shortest ferry rides in the system (Cherry Branch - Minnesott, at 20 minutes, is the shortest). Driving onto the ferry--and the feeling of anticipation it brings--is always one of the most enjoyable parts of any trip across the water. The process is efficient and, on crowded ferries, we’re always amazed how many vehicles (anywhere from 18 to 53) they can pack onto the variously sized vessels.
The Southport-Fort Fisher ferry offers year-round service, with a couple of additional trips in summer and winter to accommodate both commuters and vacationers. On this trip, one of the crew members saw us looking at Oak Island’s lighthouse through binoculars and he informs us that this run is the only one where passengers can see three lighthouses in one trip (the other two are Bald Head Island’s Old Baldy and Price’s Creek Lighthouse). He also explains the unique color schemes of the boats--the ferry Southport is painted with the colors of Duke University, while other ferries in the system are painted with the colors of other universities and colleges throughout the state.
Far too quickly, the ferry docks at Fort Fisher and we drive back onto land. The drive through Fort Fisher, which was an important Civil War Confederate stronghold, leads past the wonderful North Carolina Aquarium at Fort Fisher, making for a great stop for veteran state aquarium addicts like us (as well as first-timers destined to become addicted).
The next ferry on our tour leaves from quiet Cedar Island, and the drive northeast out of Morehead City is especially pretty and shouldn’t be rushed (plan on about an hour or so). The Cedar Island-Ocracoke ferry can be a real time- (and gas-) saver for those traveling along the coast. Thanks to its length and scenery, it’s also become one of our favorite routes. The trip in either direction typically takes about two hours and 15 minutes, but after the four hour drive from Fort Fisher to Cedar Island, it’s nice to let someone else do the “driving” the rest of the way to Ocracoke.
The trip from Cedar Island to Ocracoke offers lots of time for wildlife watching, talking to fellow passengers or crew members (which typically number from four to six), and thoroughly exploring your chosen mode of transportation. A crew member mentions that the ferry service's home port is based in Morehead City and that there's a repair and maintenance facility in Manns Harbor. He also tells us that two of the ferries were actually built in New Bern Shipyard and that today’s ferries average about 10 knots and can float in as little as six feet of water when fully loaded.
The Cedar Island-Ocracoke ferry arrives and departs right in “downtown” Ocracoke Village’s Silver Lake Harbor, so it was a short drive to our chosen accommodations. Ocracoke offers a wide range of options for the night, and we select The Castle Bed & Breakfast Inn and Villas on Silver Lake, a rambling property that includes uniquely furnished guest rooms, as well as villas with studio bedrooms and suites for more space or longer stays.
Ocracoke Village is ideally explored on foot and we won't get back in our car until it was time to catch the next ferry Saturday morning. The leisure options in Ocracoke include fishing, kayaking, a couple of small museums, shopping, and more, but we opted for the simple pleasures of visiting the squatty 75-foot Ocracoke Lighthouse and checking the menus of various restaurants to decide where we’ll have dinner tonight. We opt for the Back Porch Restaurant, which was highly recommended by innkeeper Steve Wright back at The Castle. Our tastebuds and stomachs agree, thanks to fresh seafood dishes, which are prepared plainly or with interesting sauces, like Vietnamese lime. Freshly baked breads, sumptuous desserts, seating on a screened porch, and friendly service all enhance the Back Porch experience.
Afterwards, we stroll back to The Castle and, though we hate to leave Ocracoke Island, we're both already looking forward to another ferry ride in the morning.
From Ocracoke to Hatteras
A 16-mile drive along the Atlantic Ocean through Cape Hatteras National Seashore takes us to the popular Ocracoke-Hatteras ferry. Each day, workhorse ferries depart both Ocracoke and Hatteras every hour from 5:00 a.m. to midnight, with three additions in the morning and one in the evening on the half-hour from spring to fall. This 40-minute crossing is unique in that it is one of four Ferry Division offerings that’s free of charge. The other three are: Currituck-Knotts Island; Bayview-Aurora; and Cherry Branch-Minnesott. A ferry employee once told us that the reason for the free rides is to accommodate the large numbers of commuters as well as the many school students who travel by ferry every day.
From the fishing village of Hatteras, we head along the coastline, with occasional stops on both sides of the road to enjoy lots of protected wildlife and scenery--we're still in the Cape Hatteras National Seashore. We then head to Manteo for a fun waterfront lunch at Poor Richard’s Sandwich Shop, where the creative made-to-order sandwiches (often featuring local seafood) are worth the drive inland.
From Manteo, we take the “slow” road along the beach, marveling at many houses precariously perched above the sand (and sometimes waves). We don't dally, however, because we want to take full advantage of our one-night stay at The Sanderling Resort & Spa.
A great place to arrive after a day on and near the water, The Sanderling overlooks the Atlantic Ocean to the east and Currituck Sound to the west. With an ocean view from our room's balcony, treatments at the full-service spa, and an incredible meal at the resort's on-site restaurant, The Left Bank, we find it an easy choice to once more park our car until the next day.
On Sunday morning, we contemplate continuing our ferry adventure by retracing our drive and ferry routes--or maybe even trying one of the other ones to the north and south--but, we decide to complete the “circle” by driving back on US highways 64 and 17 and comparing the two experiences.
The return drive is, as expected, uneventful and we find ourselves yearning for the next time we drive onto a ferry. We decide that you can't simply compare driving and ferry riding in terms of cost and time. In the end, getting there can truly be half the fun--especially if you take the ferry.
To Know More
Visit the Ferry Service's website at www.ncferry.org for information and schedules or call (800) 293-3779 to make reservations. You can also call 511, the state’s free travel information hotline, to check on road conditions on your way to or from the ferry.
Frequently Asked Ferry Questions
*Reservations are offered only on the Cedar Island-Ocracoke and Swan Quarter-Ocracoke routes. Reservations must be made in advance by calling the ferry terminal from which you will depart and you must claim your reservation at least 30 minutes prior to departure.
*The ferry system can accommodate any size of car, trailer, or RV that can operate on the highway and special permits are available for vehicles longer than 65 feet.
*Pets are permitted on ferries, as long as they are in the vehicle or on a leash.
*Restroom facilities are available at all ferry terminals and aboard all ferries; ADA restrooms are accessible at all shore facilities and on many vessels.
*Food and drink vending machines are available at all ferry terminals and on most ferries, with coffee service provided at most terminals and on some ferries (see website for a list). In addition, several Ferry Division stores sell clothing, hats, cups, and other ferry memorabilia and gifts.
If You're Going
*The Castle Bed & Breakfast Inn and Villas on Silver Lake
P.O. Box 908
Ocracoke, NC 27960
800-471-8848 or 252-928-3505
http://www.thecastlebb.com/
*The Sanderling Resort & Spa
1461 Duck Road
Duck, NC 27949
800-701-4111 or 252-261-4111
http://www.thesanderling.com/
*The Back Porch Restaurant
110 Back Road
Ocracoke, NC 27960
252-928-6401
Hours: Daily, 5pm-9pm