SOUTHPORT, NORTH CAROLINA:
A Southern Cruiser's Town
Boating is in the blood of both long-time locals and newcomers who have fallen in love with historic Southport, on the shores of North Carolina's Cape Fear River and Intracoastal Waterway. “Quite simply, it’s a great place for a boater to live or visit,” says Russ Ferris, a Southport resident for more than 18 years. After a day of working on one of his boats can be found at the Provision Company every afternoon. “There are an incredible amount of boating and fishing organizations and events here,” he continues, while watching the boats go by on the ICW.
Originally published in Southern Boating
This water-oriented town started out as Smithville in 1792. It was re-named Southport in 1887 and attracted lots of shipping traffic into the 20th century. Though the area’s big-time port is now up the Cape Fear River in Wilmington, the early part of this century has seen Southport develop into a popular destination for visiting cruisers, including some who appreciate the sleepy surrounding marshlands and never leave.
Located right on the Intracoastal, the Provision Company at 130 Yacht Basin Drive (910-457-0654) has become somewhat of a cruiser's Mecca in Southport. “We thought the Southport waterfront was a great location for a casual outdoor dining restaurant, which it lacked at the time,” says Maria Tilling, who has owned and operated the unique restaurant and bar with her husband Paul Swenson since 1993. “It is wonderful to be able to go to work in shorts, have a great view of the water, work in a profession we love, and live in a great town.” Their patrons grab their own drinks, paying on an honor system, and order food from the counter. Meals arriving from the tiny kitchen are delivered to your outdoor table by friendly waitresses who call out your name until you claim your order. Patron favorites include steamed shrimp, a great grouper salad sandwich, freshly made chowder, and some seriously tasty hamburgers. Free overnight dockage is available if you buy dinner.
Mark Tallon is another boater--and Provision Company regular--who has fallen for Southport. Although hardly anyone here used to sail 20 years ago, Mark notes Southport now has an active sailing scene. “Our current governor, Mike Easley, is really into sailing in this area,” he says. Easley maintains a second home in Southport. “The sailing is great around here," Mark says. Our Cape Fear Yacht Club, which just celebrated it’s tenth anniversary, has an active racing scene, as well as other boating-oriented events.”
Convenient dock space for boats of all types can be found at Southport Marina at ICW MM 309. Docking here puts most of downtown Southport’s offerings, including shopping and an excellent dining scene, all within easy walking distance for transients. You can also get fresh shrimp right off the boat in season. Southport Marina offers 200 recently upgraded slips on floating docks, dry storage, gas and diesel, freshwater, electricity, cable television and wi-fi, and a full-service boatyard.
Southport is a charming little town with quiet tree-lined streets, small shops and restaurants and lots of friendly locals. The first stop should be the Southport Visitor Center located next to the town library at 113 West Moore Street. Pick up the “Southport Trail” pamphlet, which features an excellent walking tour taking you past notable historic buildings with with many marine-oriented highlights. Though the town is walkable, visiting cruisers shouldn't be surprised if a local offers them a ride.
History buffs will definitely want to pay a visit to the North Carolina Maritime Museum of Southport at 116 N. Howe Street ( 910-457-0003). The museum houses an excellent collection of memorabilia pertaining to the vast nautical history of the Lower Cape Fear region of southeastern North Carolina. Exhibits range from model ships to accounts of pirate Stede Bonnet’s pleas for clemency before he was hanged. Those who like to shop till they drop will love the options in Southport--Howe Street and Moore Street both bustle with independent shops (visit southportmerchants.com).
Southport has some wonderful parks worth checking out. Local legend has it that if you drink water from the pump in Franklin Square Park, you’re destined to return. Keziah Memorial Park is home to the 800-year-old Indian Trail Tree and Waterfront Park is a great place to sit and watch the boats go by, which range from tiny local skiffs to huge freighters from far afield. Another big Southport attraction is actually an event: the North Carolina Fourth of July Festival has evolved into a big festival featuring arts and crafts, entertainment, a parade, fireworks, and more--including lots of cruisers.
Along with the casual Provision Company, Southport has some excellent dining. The possibilities include colorful waterfront dining at Fishy Fishy above the marina, world-class Thai fare at Thai Peppers on East Moore Street and creative upscale cuisine at The Pharmacy on East Moore Street, Mr. P’s Bistro on North Howe Street, or Live Oak Cafe also on North Howe Street. The dining scene continues to evolve and there are sure to be even more excellent choices in coming seasons.
A bit further along the ICW, South Harbour Village Marina located at ICW MM 311 is an up-and-coming stop for those traveling the coast. Though it’s not within convenient walking distance of downtown Southport, it's close to Oak Island--an 8,000-resident beach community that’s coming on the real estate radar in a big way. Wildlife Creek, situated behind South Harbour Marina, provides a nice place to anchor.
Just across the Cape Fear River and reached only by private boat or public ferry from the Indigo Plantation Marina (next to the city marina) in Southport, Bald Head Island (baldheadhisland.com) is another great boating destination. Golf carts are the chosen mode of transportation once on land. The island features a full-service 10-acre marina located two miles east of ICW MM 307 (910-457-7380), dining, shopping, an 18-hole golf course through salt marsh and maritime forest, accommodations, and sightseeing in the shadow of Old Baldy, North Carolina's oldest lighthouse. She was retired in 1935 but is now open to the public for tours. A historic tour of Bald Head Island includes stops at the Smith Museum, the Old Baldy lighthouse and lunch or dinner.
Anyone who loves boats might enjoy the opportunity to see them being built at the local Southport Boat Works (910-383-0365; southport-boatworks.com). Founded in 2003, the company sells four models of 26 and 28-foot sport- fishing boats through dealerships throughout the country and the Caribbean. Designed by renowned naval architects, C. Raymond Hunt Associates, they are built to handle the rough sea conditions often found off the coast of the Carolinas and elsewhere.
As the day winds down, visitors and locals alike wander over to the Provision Company to exchange news and wait for action. Only two kinds of cruisers cut marker #1 on the wrong side as they approach town: locals and tourists. Locals know when and how to do it, while tourists may find their boat going aground right in front of the crowd. Visiting cruisers who get it right, however, will find regulars are typically happy to help with the sometimes tricky docking process--just be sure to buy ‘em a beer once the lines are secure!
Know Before You Go:
*Use NOAA Chart #11536 for offshore approach and #11537 for harbor approach.
*Southport Visitor Center: 910-457-7927 or 800-388-9635
*Southport Marina: 910-457-9900 - transient vessels to 200 feet
*South Harbor Village Marina: 910-457-7486 - transient vessels to 120 feet
*Bald Head Island Marina: 910-234-1666 - transient vessels to 94 feet
*Indigo Plantation Marina: 910-457-7380 - transient vessels to 70 feet